Fig. 7 Fig. 8 26. Western Doppakh via Southwestern slopes and Northwestern ridge (I. Suzhaev's combined route, category 4A, fig. 7, 8). The path from the Nakhashbita meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the Doppakh glacier is described in route 22. On the right side of the glacier, approach a small steep lateral glacier descending onto the Doppakh glacier from the right, from under the Sugansky Pass located between:

• the Doppakh massif on the right
• Suganbashi on the left. Here, turn right and, bypassing two small icefalls, ascend on the right side of the steep lateral, heavily crevassed glacier (stonefall possible from the Doppakh walls). From the upper part of the lateral glacier - via a steep, narrow, and moderately difficult couloir (120-150 m) on the left of a wide, inclined, snow-covered shelf of the Doppakh massif, where stonefall is frequent. Ascent ("live" rocks - piton belay) to the Sugansky Pass. From the "Nakhashbita" meadow - 5-7 hours.

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 27. Doppakh West via Northwest Ridge (I. Leonov's combined route, category 4B difficulty, Fig. 7, 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) to the lower shoulder of the Northwest ridge, the summit of Doppakh West with the initial bivouac at a small kar in the left side of Sugansky Pass under the Southeast rib of Suganbashi is described in route 26. From the shoulder (bivouac possible) approach the First rock uplift of the Northwest ridge and ascend a 15 m inclined plate, then via difficult rocks of a 12 m steep inner corner to this uplift. Along 35–40 m destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the Northwest ridge, approach a vertical wall of a zhendarmer. From under the zhendarmer:

• 15 m descent from the ridge to the left onto a vaguely defined shelf;
• traverse 30 m along the shelf to bypass the zhendarmer.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — Technical (first ascent).
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus. Sugansky Ridge.
3. Doppakh Z. NE face. NE ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6A.
5. Height difference of the wall section — 750 m. Total to the summit — 1098 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 210 m. Average wall slope — 65°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 124/29, bolted 3, chocks 95/16
7. Movement hours — 67 (6 days).

Fig. 8 30. Tsentralnyi Doppakh via West Ridge (I. Suzhaev's combined route, category 4B, Fig. 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on a snowy site under the East Ridge of West Doppakh is described in route 29. From the site, cross the col (cornice) along the snowy ridge, then approach the base of the first rocky ascent of the West Ridge of Tsentralnyi Doppakh along the steep snowy ridge. Further:

• Ascend the 6–8-meter icy slab of the ascent (piton belay);
• Bypass the overhanging rocks on the right;
• Ascend an 8-meter slab-like, above-average-difficulty rock corner with few footholds (piton belay) to the West Ridge. Along the heavily cut, destroyed, and snow-covered, average-difficulty 120–150-meter West Ridge, approach the first "gendarme". Ascend the 18–20-meter wall of average difficulty to reach the gendarme. Descend left from the gendarme. Then, traverse the steep rocks on the left side (belays) to bypass two needle-like gendarmes and rejoin the West Ridge. Continuing along the West Ridge:
• Bypass a smooth slab — a gendarme — via a 4–5-meter traverse on the left;

Donpakh 1000 Nnd

combined, 2B cat. dif. 10 drainevo From the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the northwest, traversing the southern scree and grassy slopes of the Nakhashbita and Donpakh massifs, exit to the Donpakh glacier. Time — 1–1.5 hours. When moving along the moraines, beware of possible rockfalls from the slopes of the Donpakh massif. From the Donpakh glacier, to the right along the ascent to the east along a small glacier, flowing down from the slopes of the South and Main Donpakh (photo 29). The glacier with a steepness of 20–30° is uncomplicated, it leads through a small ridge into a wide scree couloir with separate sections of rocks and snow. The couloir begins at a small saddle between the Donpakh South peak to the north and two "gendarmes" to the south, sometimes referred to as

34. Doppakh Eastern — Western (A. Zyuzin's combined route, 5A cat. dif.).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (4-8 people group), to the summit of Eastern Doppakh is described in routes 31, 32. From Eastern Doppakh, descend in the direction of Central Doppakh along a 40-meter steep rocky ridge to a small saddle with a summit tower. From it, make a 30 m rappel to the left, then along a ledge on the left side of the tower, exit to the western ridge of the summit. Further, along rocks of medium difficulty, ascend 30 m along the ridge to the Black Gendarme. From it, make a 25 m rappel along steep, destroyed rocks to the ridge. From here, along simple, destroyed rocks of the ridge, passing a saddle, ascend to the Flat Gendarme. From the Gendarme, descend to an ice-snow saddle. From the saddle, along a simple 40-50-meter ice-snow ridge with sections of rocks, ascend to the Central Gendarme (Doppakh-3). From Central Gendarme, descend along the ridge or ledges on its right side to the inclined northward Gendarme Tower. From under the Tower, make a 25 m rappel to the left. Bypassing the Gendarme, ascend to the saddle of the ridge. Further, along a steep, complex ridge, ascend to the Gendarme Kupol. From Kupol, descend along the ice-snow ridge to a snow plateau. Set up a bivouac on the plateau. From Eastern Doppakh, 6-8 hours. Along the plateau, bypass the large Pre-summit Gendarme from the right and, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80 m along a steep ice-snow slope to the rocky base of Central Doppakh. Along difficult rocks of a 50-60-meter wall, ascend to the sharp ridge of the summit and along it, exit to Central Doppakh. From the plateau, 2-3 hours.

33. Doppakh Western — Eastern (combined route by I. Suzhaev, 5a category of difficulty).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the Psygansu river bank, under the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Western Doppakh summit is described in the routes:

• 24
• 26
• 27
• 28 From the Western summit, a simple 120–150-meter snow slope of the Eastern ridge leads to a small snow plateau in the direction of the Central summit. The bivouac is on the plateau. From here:
• 180–200 m along the snowy Eastern ridge,
• then along a steep 60–80-meter icy slope to a site near the ice-snow col between the Western and Central summits of the massif.

DESCRIPTION Category III, 56. FIRST ASCENTS OF TYUTYU-VASHI VIA THE NORTH FACE On August 8, 1949, the Lokomotiv team consisting of B. Garf (team leader), G. Vedenikov, V. Sher, A. Starostin, and A. Deikin (reserve) set off by car from the Lokomotiv camp to Adyl-Su for an alpine survey of the Tyutyu-Su gorge. The route commission had approved routes on any of the north faces in this gorge: Jailyk, Tyutyu-Bashi, or Sulukol. The choice was to be made on site after preliminary reconnaissance. The Tyutyu-Su River, which flows into the Baksan from the right, 3 km above the Tyrny-Auz settlement, runs through a picturesque and little-explored gorge. Paradoxically, despite the proximity to the road (a 4-hour walk along a good trail from the Tyrny-Auz settlement), the most interesting and difficult ascents in this area have not been made yet. Twice, Honored Master of Sports A.S. Zuzin visited this gorge, but at that time, he was mainly pursuing tourist-research goals and made only a few ascents via easy routes. Thus, the Lokomotiv team had a wide field of activity. The car took us to the last bridge over the Baksan before Tyrny-Auz. Here, we loaded all the expedition gear onto donkeys and set off first upstream along the Baksan (on the right bank) along a dirt road and then, crossing the Tyutyu-Su via a bridge, turned upstream along the deep canyon, following a trail laid along the left bank of the river. After 3 km, we were disappointed:

95. Tytu East via the North Face

(combined route by L. Popov, category 5B, fig. 5, 10). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4-5 people) through the Tютюsu gorge to the initial bivouac and at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Tютю glacier is described in route 92. From the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine, cross the Tютю glacier and approach the rocky base of the North Face of Tютю East peak. From the glacier, begin the ascent up the wall along difficult and moderately difficult rocks using an upward-sloping internal corner to the left until reaching scree. From the corner, traverse right along a wide scree shelf through a snow patch along a belt of moderately difficult destroyed rocks to a steep icy rocky couloir (avalanche, rockfall hazard). Along difficult rocks of the vertical wall, 40 m straight up to the left of the icy couloir,

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.