DESCRIPTION

Category III, 56.

FIRST ASCENTS OF TYUTYU-VASHI VIA THE NORTH FACE

On August 8, 1949, the Lokomotiv team consisting of B. Garf (team leader), G. Vedenikov, V. Sher, A. Starostin, and A. Deikin (reserve) set off by car from the Lokomotiv camp to Adyl-Su for an alpine survey of the Tyutyu-Su gorge.

The route commission had approved routes on any of the north faces in this gorge: Jailyk, Tyutyu-Bashi, or Sulukol. The choice was to be made on site after preliminary reconnaissance.

The Tyutyu-Su River, which flows into the Baksan from the right, 3 km above the Tyrny-Auz settlement, runs through a picturesque and little-explored gorge.

Paradoxically, despite the proximity to the road (a 4-hour walk along a good trail from the Tyrny-Auz settlement), the most interesting and difficult ascents in this area have not been made yet. Twice, Honored Master of Sports A.S. Zuzin visited this gorge, but at that time, he was mainly pursuing tourist-research goals and made only a few ascents via easy routes. Thus, the Lokomotiv team had a wide field of activity.

The car took us to the last bridge over the Baksan before Tyrny-Auz. Here, we loaded all the expedition gear onto donkeys and set off first upstream along the Baksan (on the right bank) along a dirt road and then, crossing the Tyutyu-Su via a bridge, turned upstream along the deep canyon, following a trail laid along the left bank of the river.

After 3 km, we were disappointed:

• The trail crossed to the right bank,
• and the bridge was destroyed.

We had to release the donkeys and organize a crossing using ropes and carabiners. That day, we spent the night on the right bank, a little above the crossing.

August 9

The entire day was devoted to "shuttle" operations to haul heavy gear up the gorge. By evening, the base camp was finally set up at the forest boundary on a green meadow near a small stream flowing into Tyutyu-Su.

Before us, behind a steep moraine, rose the powerful north faces of Jailyk, Tyutyu-Bashi, and Sulukol. It was Tyutyu-Bashi that caught our attention.

With the help of binoculars, we could determine that the ascent to Tyutyu-Bashi via the north face was extremely difficult but highly interesting and outstanding. The lower part of the route was not visible from the base camp; it was obscured by the moraine and the glacier flowing from the upper cirque.

August 10, 1953

G. Vedenikov, V. Sher, A. Starostin, and A. Deikin went on reconnaissance to the upper cirque to inspect the lower parts of the routes to the peaks. B. Garf, who had slightly injured his knee the day before, stayed at the base camp. The reconnaissance party returned in the evening. The peaks were thoroughly examined. After discussion, the choice finally fell on Tyutyu-Bashi: the ascent was undoubtedly the most difficult and significantly more interesting than those on Jailyk and Sulukol.

August 11, 1953

At 11:00, the team set off in full force to the upper cirque. According to the plan approved by the route commission, the main group of four was to make the assault. The 5th team member, the reserve, was to serve as an observer. He was given a control time (August 18, 13:00), and in case of its violation, he was to urgently notify the Lokomotiv camp to organize rescue operations.

The reserve team member, Anatoly Deikin, a young climber who had already proven himself well, received all necessary instructions. The signal was to be given by the assault group daily at 20:30 by flashing a film reel. The response from the observer was to be made by splashing gasoline into a smoldering campfire.

Deikin accompanied us to the upper cirque. Here, he was to spend the night with us and observe our ascent through binoculars the next day. By evening, he planned to descend to the base camp and from there continue observation and communication.

That day, the group thoroughly examined the options for ascending the north face and finally identified the only seemingly possible route. The group spent the night on the left side of the glacier flowing from the saddle between Tyutyu-Bashi and Sulukol, directly opposite the next day's ascent.

August 12, 1953

Departure at 5 am. Deikin remained on the moraine. Garf and Starostin (1st rope), Vedenikov and Sher (2nd rope) quickly crossed the glacier and approached the base of the ascent. The lower part of the north counterfort is inaccessible - the smooth "ram's foreheads" drop sheer onto the glacier. We began to bypass to the right. Having passed the avalanche cone, we started ascending a steep firn couloir, quickly turning into an ice chute. Further progress along the chute was blocked by a large boulder. We had to exit to the right onto icefalls. At this moment, Vedenikov, citing his overall unsatisfactory physical condition, refused to continue the ascent despite the persuasion of the other group members. The team captain, placed in a difficult position, was forced to agree to a replacement.

From the observation point on the moraine, Deikin was called, and Vedenikov descended. The entire exchange procedure took about an hour. Deikin took his place in the rope with Vera Sher, and the group continued moving upward.

We began to bypass the chute to the right along the icefalls. The first ropes could be climbed on the front peaks of the crampons, but then the steepness increased, and we had to use an axe to cut steps and then handholds. Protection was provided by ice screws.

Having ascended 150-160 m from the glacier, we became convinced that further progress along the icefalls was impossible due to the steepness approaching a sheer drop. After a short but very difficult traverse to the left, I approached the boundary between the rocks and ice.

The only route that gave a chance to climb onto the rocks was a narrow, vertical rendi-zul mutually limited by a completely smooth rock on one side and a sheer gully on the other. Leaving my backpack and driving a rock anchor, I used it as a support: pulling myself up with my hands, I managed to climb into a crevice onto an icy slab. Here, a second anchor was driven, and I finally climbed onto the rocks, where it was possible to organize good protection through an ice axe stuck in the rendi-zul.

The others were lifted using a rope from the upper belay.

The route then led to the left along the rocks along the ice couloir flowing west into the icefalls. The rocks quickly became more complex, and Starostin, who was leading, had to leave his backpack behind and exert himself to the limit, using microscopic holds on smooth, icy slabs. Protection was on pitons.

We moved very slowly and finally emerged onto the north ridge by 18:00. Here, we managed to find a semblance of a platform, on which, after two hours of heavy construction work, we managed to set up a tent. At 20:30, we gave the signal and joyfully noticed Vedenikov's response from the distant base camp.

August 13, 1953

We set out at 9:00 when the sun warmed the rocks. After several ropes of difficult rock climbing, we encountered smooth, "oatmeal" monoliths. We attempted to bypass them to the right, pressing against the icefalls, wearing crampons and cutting steps. We traversed four ropes along the icefalls along the randkluft until we were again stopped by a sheer ice wall.

Once more, we transitioned to the rocks, overcoming smoothed, icy slabs. The leader often had to go without a backpack, with protection on pitons. But then, another obstacle appeared in the form of an internal angle of two wet and smooth slabs 6-8 m high.

Starostin attempted to overcome this spot but, having climbed a few meters, found that the upper part was overhanging and could not be climbed. At that moment, a growing roar was heard, and we barely managed to "stick" to the rocks as a massive rockfall thundered past our heads. Powerful "bombs" hit the rocks 1-1.5 m from us and whizzed away down the icefalls.

Having caught our breath, we began to look for a detour. With Starostin's help, I managed, without a backpack, to climb to the right onto a smooth rock and, on the other side, found a possible route in the form of a vertical, icy chute, which I climbed in a stem. Having traversed to the right a few meters, I approached a powerful anchor block bordering the randkluft. Here, it was possible to establish reliable protection on an ice axe. I pulled up my backpack, and then the others followed using upper belay, partly using alpine methods.

We turned left and moved along severely shattered rocks, where stones were held in place only by the freezing ice. Organizing protection was very difficult. After 4-5 ropes of slow climbing, we emerged onto a narrow, snow-ice ridge, on the other side of which we found a more or less horizontal spot.

As it was approaching evening, we decided to stop for a bivouac. Again, heavy construction work was required, and it was only in the twilight that we crawled into the tent, looking forward to a hearty dinner and a long sleep. At 20:30, the gorge was shrouded in fog. Establishing communication with the base camp was not possible.

August 14, 1953

We set out at 6:00 am. Along a relatively easy snow ridge (2-3 ropes), we approached a small bergschrund, crossed it, and turned left. An ice slope with a 40-45° steepness and rock islands was traversed on crampons without cutting steps. Protection was partially through ledges on rock islands and partially through ice screws. Alternating leadership with Starostin, we traversed 6-8 ropes, overcoming the slope, whose steepness continued to increase, requiring the use of an ice axe to cut steps.

Finally, we climbed onto a ridge, where a hollow between the rocks and snow allowed us to remove our backpacks and rest in a normal position. Then, for 100-150 m, an easy snow ridge, turning into a slope, led us to a large bergschrund blocking the entire slope. From here, it was necessary to climb onto the ice crest approaching from the east to the rocks of the summit tower. We attempted to ascend the sheer ice wall 6-8 m high above the bergschrund. Starostin belayed while I cut steps and handholds and drove pitons. But the upper part was overhanging, and above the wall, another steep ice ridge loomed. We couldn't make it. Then we traversed under the bergschrund to the right across the entire slope and here, having crossed a crevasse on a bridge, we emerged onto a steep firn slope going up to the icy eastern ridge. The first 2 ropes held well on the firn, and protection was possible through an ice axe. But then the steepness quickly increased, reaching 60°, and the snow layer decreased to 6-8 cm; under the snow was ice. We had to clear the snow and climb on the front peaks of the crampons on the ice. Protection was constantly through ice screws.

The route was very exhausting, tense, and slow. This continued for about 200 m, after which I finally emerged onto the icy ridge, very sharp, with steep slopes on both sides.

Starostin followed. Another two driven pitons, and I finally reached the first rocks of the summit tower. Here, protection through ledges was possible.

Starostin moved forward and found a ledge on which we could all sit. The others followed.

After a brief discussion, we decided to use the remaining daylight to find a more decent bivouac site.

August 15

Sher and Deikin rested, while Starostin and I, leaving our backpacks behind, went in search to the left, where the rocks looked more dissected.

Finally, we managed to find a stone balcony, which we later called the "eagle's nest".

A small, flat area above the precipice allowed us to stretch the tent's edge, and the floor was flattened by our bodies. It would be a decent place to sleep. Only Deikin, who was at the edge of the precipice, had to be tied to a rock and a piton driven into the ground.

From here, the base camp was not visible (we had turned south), and giving a signal was not possible.

August 16, 1953

We set out around 8:00 am. We decided to return a bit to the north side and continue along the northeast ridge, which merged with the slopes of the summit tower in a steep counterfort. Having retraced our steps from the previous day (2 ropes) and turning left around the corner, we saw that the route ahead would be difficult.

Sections of very steep, frozen ice with a treacherous layer of thin snow alternated with smooth, icy, and snow-covered rocks. To find a hold or drive a piton, we first had to clear the snow and then expose the ice. Every meter was won with a fight, in extreme nervous tension, as directly beneath our feet, a sheer drop of hundreds of meters yawned. After 6 ropes, we emerged onto a 45° inclined slab under an overhanging rock. The only detour to the left along a chute was very difficult and required Starostin, who was leading at the moment, to drive 2 pitons and exert all his strength.

Then we switched places again. One rope of difficult rock climbing followed, and again an obstacle: a smooth, narrow rock, onto which I climbed, sitting astride after pulling myself up with my hands. Above it was a small platform and an overhanging wall about 8 m high. The detour to the left was very unpleasant: "an ice cliff with embedded rocks, very thriftily arranged". Using steps didn't work, as the ice broke away. After several fruitless attempts, I searched for a route to the right. At first glance, it seemed impassable, but then a solution was found.

Having climbed over the rock, I rappelled down 5-6 m along an icy wall and found myself at the base of a sheer, icy chimney with icicles. With extreme tension, I climbed 10-12 m in a stem.

Waiting on the ice ledges, I traversed to the right, driving 2 pitons along the way. The rope ended, but the summit was within reach. At my request, Starostin attached a rappel rope to the end of the main rope, and I was able to continue.

Extremely carefully, probing every embedded rock, chipping ice, and driving pitons, I climbed meter by meter along steep, icy blocks. The last 6 m were the most difficult; my feet struggled to hold on to microscopic, icy holds, and my numb fingers refused to obey. Finally, clenching my teeth, I reached the snowy edge of the summit and, pulling myself up with my hands, swung my stomach over to the other side and climbed onto the summit. I couldn't help but sigh in relief.

What a stark contrast - two different worlds:

• The north face - the nightmarish route we had passed - a realm of ice and cold, gloomy rock faces encased in icy armor.
• To the south lay gentle slopes of easy rocks with scree, without the slightest sign of snow.

The summit itself was 10-15 m away. After resting and shouting to Starostin to follow, I ran along the broad, gentle, scree-covered ridge to the cairn. In the can, there was a note from senior instructor P.I. Povarmin of the "Khimik" camp, dated August 15, 1947, written during a traverse of all Tyutyu-Bashi peaks with a group of badge holders.

There was plenty of space on the summit to set up a dozen tents, but it was too late - it was already past 20:00. I shouted to Starostin to come up, and the second rope could bivouac where they were - there was enough space for two.

It was already dark when Starostin climbed up. We had a double sleeping bag, but alas, all the provisions and cooking gear remained below. Vera Sher and Deikin had managed to find a decent spot and could even lie down. They were busily frying kebabs and potatoes, and from below came teasing temptations to our hungry pair.

With a sigh, we had a makeshift dinner of candies remaining in our pockets and crawled into the sleeping bag. The weather was perfect - absolute stillness and a bright starry sky above. But the cold was felt even in the sleeping bag. The gorge was again in fog, and giving a signal was pointless.

August 16

Early in the morning, I descended to retrieve the backpack left the day before, and a hot breakfast was waiting for me. I devoured it with relish while a furious, hungry Starostin paced back and forth on the summit like a caged tiger, hurling rocks down.

By now, a reliable rope was stretched to the summit, and the ascent for the remaining group members presented no difficulties. While Starostin finally sated his wolfish hunger, we basked in the sun, dried our clothes, and boiled endless tea. We decided to descend to the south. We had had enough of the north face's sheer drops. At 12:20, having placed a traditional note in the cairn, we began our descent. The descent along the eastern ridge was a pleasant walk compared to the route we had taken. At 19:00, having descended into the Adyr-Su gorge, we entered the "Khimik" camp, where numerous friends gave us a triumphant welcome.

Comparing this ascent to routes like the northwest face of Ushba, the north face of Isherdy, and others, which it far surpasses in technical difficulty, it should undoubtedly be rated as a category 5B climb.

Captain of the Lokomotiv team, Master of Sports (V. Garf).