Donpakh 1000 Nnd

combined, 2B cat. dif. 10 drainevo

From the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the northwest, traversing the southern scree and grassy slopes of the Nakhashbita and Donpakh massifs, exit to the Donpakh glacier. Time — 1–1.5 hours. When moving along the moraines, beware of possible rockfalls from the slopes of the Donpakh massif. From the Donpakh glacier, to the right along the ascent to the east along a small glacier, flowing down from the slopes of the South and Main Donpakh (photo 29). The glacier with a steepness of 20–30° is uncomplicated, it leads through a small ridge into a wide scree couloir with separate sections of rocks and snow. The couloir begins at a small saddle between the Donpakh South peak to the north and two "gendarmes" to the south, sometimes referred to as Maly Donpakh. The entrance to the saddle is along slopes of medium difficulty with belay through ledges and 2–3 rock pitons. From the saddle, ascent to the north along the summit ridge in the form of steep slab-like rocks of medium difficulty (photo 25).

Belay through ledges (3–4 pcs.) and outcrops. The length of the section is 50–60 m.

Further along the rocky ridge with sections of snow — exit to the summit.

From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, depending on the group's preparedness and the state of the glacier, 5–6 hours.

Descent along the ascent route to the "Nakhashbita" clearing takes 4 hours.

When descending from the summit in the couloir, 2–3 sport rappels of 10–15 m are organized.

For the route, the group should have:

• main ropes
• 5 rock pitons
• hammers
• rope for 3 slings
• crampons (up to the couloir)
• ice axes
• protective glasses
• other equipment.