95. Tytu East via the North Face

(combined route by L. Popov, category 5B, fig. 5, 10). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4-5 people) through the Tютюsu gorge to the initial bivouac and at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Tютю glacier is described in route 92. From the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine, cross the Tютю glacier and approach the rocky base of the North Face of Tютю East peak. From the glacier, begin the ascent up the wall along difficult and moderately difficult rocks using an upward-sloping internal corner to the left until reaching scree. From the corner, traverse right along a wide scree shelf through a snow patch along a belt of moderately difficult destroyed rocks to a steep icy rocky couloir (avalanche, rockfall hazard).

Along difficult rocks of the vertical wall, 40 m straight up to the left of the icy couloir, then up a 50-70-meter steep internal corner (ladders).

The movement continues:

• 30-40 m up and to the right,
• exit into an ice-snow couloir.

80 m up along the left side of the couloir, then exit from it to the left onto a shoulder platform. Bivouac on the shoulder. 8-10 hours from the initial bivouac.

From the platform, 80 m up and to the right along moderately difficult destroyed rocks. Then 80 m straight up along difficult rocks of the wall to an ice-snow slope. 60-70 m up and to the right along the slope with rock outcrops to beneath a rocky ascent. Along difficult, partially snow-covered or icy rocks of the internal corner of the wall, 120-140 m straight up to a snowy slope. Up the slope, then along snow-covered simple and moderately difficult slab-like rocks to a platform in the middle of the North-East ridge of the North Face of Tютю East peak. Bivouac on the platform. 8-10 hours from the previous bivouac.

The further path is described in route 94.