Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188.

From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak.

On the East Ridge:

• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.
• Descend from the gendarme along similar rocks to the snowy saddle of the East Ridge.
• From the saddle, start ascending steep, above-moderate difficulty rocks on the right side of the ridge, then move to the left side or via a 6-meter wall on the left side of the ridge.
• Further, along simple and moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the East Ridge, exit under a 40-meter internal corner.
• Ascend above-moderate difficulty crumbling rocks in the upper part of the corner ("live" rocks, piton protection!) straight up.
• Then, along simple and moderately difficult rocks, bypass the 1st gendarme on the left and reach the slabs.
• Ascend a 25-meter smooth slab straight up (piton protection!).
• Then, along ledges, bypass the 2nd and 3rd gendarmes of the East Ridge on the left and exit onto the ridge under the summit ascent.
• Ascend a steep slab (piton protection!), then along gentle, simple, and moderately difficult rocks of the East Ridge to the summit of Jailyk.

Time from the initial bivouac — 10–12 hours.

Descent — via the ascent route with a bivouac on the snowy saddle.

Special equipment for 4 people:

• Main rope — 2×40 m
• Auxiliary cord — 5 m
• Rock pitons — 10
• Ice pitons — 4–5
• Rock hammers — 2
• Carabiners — 10–12
• Crampons — 4 pairs
• Tent — 1

Possible bivouac locations:

• On the ridge before the East gendarme
• On the saddle
• Behind the gendarme
• On the summit