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Route description and passport for 2B category complexity route to Tlilimeer peak (2456 m) in Dagestan, including approach, technically challenging sections, and descent.

Ascent Passport

  1. Winter ascent class.
  2. Caucasus, region 2.10., Dagestan Mountains.
  3. Tlimi-Mer 2456 m, from the south, rocky route.
  4. Category 2B complexity.
  5. Height difference 450 m, total route length — 1200 m, sections of 1st cat. diff. – 1020 m, 2nd cat. diff. – 45 m, 3rd cat. diff. – 10 m, 4th cat. diff. – 125 m, average steepness of the route 45°.
  6. Used: rock pitons – 6 pcs., chocks – 5 pcs.
  7. Moving hours – 4 hours.
  8. No overnight stays. Overnight stay under the lower rocky belt, under the cornice between two waterfalls (2000 m).
  9. Leader: Konstantin E. Dorro — Candidate Master of Sports
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Description of the ascent route to Mt. M. Gadzhiev (Chimis-mirr, 4099 m) via the South ridge, category 2A, in Dagestan.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent Area
  2. Ascent Class
  3. Peak, its Height
  4. Ascent Route
  5. Estimated Difficulty Category
  6. Route Characteristics
  7. Pitons
  8. Number of Travel Hours
  9. Overnight Stay
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### Ice Route to Mt. M. Gadjiev Peak: Complexity Category, Section Characteristics, Approach, and Route Diagram Description of the ice route to the summit of Mt. M. Gadjiev, complexity category, characteristics of sections, approach to the route, and route diagram.

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Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing category: ice
  2. Climbing area according to KTMGV: Eastern Caucasus (2.9)
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. M. Gadjieva 4073 m, from the glacier along the northern ridge
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 3A
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 600 m, average steepness 30°, length of sections: R1 – 100 m; R2 – 180 m; R3 – 250 m; R4 – 130 m; R5 – 150 m; R6 – 160 m; R7 – 220 m; R8 – 40 m; R9 – 40 m.
  6. Number of anchors for belay:
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Ascent route description to the summit of East Shalbuzdag (4060 m), the 2nd tower, via the 2B category of difficulty route with a detailed description of the path and photographs.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock climbing
  2. Ascent area: 2.96 mountains of Dagestan
  3. Peak: its height, ascent route, and character:
    • Shalbuzdag East (4060 m), 2nd tower from the south
  4. Proposed complexity category: 2B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths:
    • category I — 340 m, category II — 95 m, category III — 70 m, category IV — 10 m.
  6. Pitons hammered:
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Description of the route to the 4th tower of Shalbuzdag Mt. (4020 m) via D-W buttress, category 4, in Dagestan, climbed by a group of alpinists in 1989.

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing
  2. Climbing area — 2.10., Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
  3. Peak, its height, climbing route, its character — Shalbuzdag East, 4th tower, 4020 m, via the SE buttress.
  4. Estimated category complexity — 3A
  5. Route description — Height difference 400 m, section length 10 m, average steepness — 45°.
  6. Pitons used — rock, ice, bolted 6/0, 0/0, 0/0; placed nuts 6/0
  7. Number of climbing hours — 4
  8. Number of nights — No overnight stay
  9. Leader's full name, participants and their qualification — Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, 1st sports category; Mammaev Sulayban Nurmagomedovich, 2nd sports category; Krasnopolsky Yuri Vasilyevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
  10. Team coach —
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Ascent to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4150 m) via the Eastern couloir, category 1B difficulty, in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class
  2. Ascent area
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route
  4. Proposed difficulty category
  5. Route characteristics:
  6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock, ice, bolted
  7. Number of travel hours
  8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification
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Ascent to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4122 m) via the South-East Wall, category of difficulty 2B, description of the route, its characteristics and trip details.

  1. Climbing type: rock climbing
  2. Climbing area: #2.9 (Eastern Caucasus)
  3. Peak, its height, and climbing route: Shalbuzdag 4142 m via the southeast wall
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B
  5. Route description: Height difference 500 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections with I difficulty category — 200 m, II category — 330 m, III category — 190 m, IV category — 20 m.
  6. Pitons hammered (for belaying): rock: 15 ice: 0 bolt: 0
  7. Number of walking hours: 8
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Description of the first ascent to the summit 4118 m in the Shahdag massif in the Eastern Caucasus via a combined route of category III complexity.

PASSPORT

I. Class: First Ascent. 2. SHAHDAG massif, Eastern Caucasus, from Sudur valley. 3. Peak 4118 m, in the western ridge of Shahdag massif, via the right part of the northern slope, combined. 4. Difficulty category — 3B. 5. Elevation gain 1050 m, length 2500 m, sections of 3rd diff. cat. — 450 m, 4th diff. cat. — 50 m, average steepness 25°, main part of the route — 45°. 6. Pitons — 43/0, ice screws, rock — 4/0. Wedges — 0. 7. Travel hours — 8 h. 8. No overnight stays. 9. Leader: Alexander M. Khvashchenko, Candidate Master of Sports.

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Ascent to the summit of Bazardyuzi (4466 m) from the south-western circus, category 2A complexity, description of the route and approach to the summit.

Passport

  1. Character of the route — ice and snow
  2. Eastern Caucasus, valley of the rivers Yatuxdere, Shakhnabad, Kusarchay
  3. Bazardyuzi from the Southwest Cirque
  4. Expected 2A cat. diff. – first ascent
  5. Elevation gain — 880 m, length — 2260 m Length of sections with 2nd cat. diff. — 1360 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 26°
  6. Climbing hours — 5 h
  7. Leader — Asadov Yakub Aliaga ogly
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Description of a 5B category route to the summit of Dykh-Tau via the Georgian path through the north-eastern counterfort.

Dykh-Tau (Main), NE BUTTRESS — 5B

"Georgian Route".

Initial bivouac — on the meadow under the base of the SE ridge of Brno peak. From the meadow, transition to Cheget-Mijirgi glacier — western branch of Mijirginsky glacier, bounded by slopes of Dykh-Tau and Misses-Tau. Along the right side of the glacier:

  • first, up along the slopes of the eastern ridge of Misses-Tau,
  • then crossing the glacier to the left (crevasses, avalanches) with exit under the base of the NE buttress. 200 m below the upper rock island to the right and transition to rocks on the left edge of the buttress base. From the initial bivouac 5 hours. Further movement along the buttress with general direction left and up with exit to its right edge, subsequently turning into a clearly defined ridge. Along the way, between both edges, a series of more or less clearly defined ridges is overcome. A rock mushroom on the ridge of the NE buttress can serve as a landmark. Exit to the ridge under the yellow (40 m) wall 15–20 m above the mushroom. The wall is ascended in the center; the overhanging section in the upper part is bypassed to the right. 50–70 m of straightforward climbing after the wall lead to a ledge. Bivouac is possible. From the initial bivouac 12–14 hours. From the ledge:
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