Dykh-Tau (Main), NE BUTTRESS — 5B

"Georgian Route".

Initial bivouac — on the meadow under the base of the SE ridge of Brno peak. From the meadow, transition to Cheget-Mijirgi glacier — western branch of Mijirginsky glacier, bounded by slopes of Dykh-Tau and Misses-Tau.

Along the right side of the glacier:

• first, up along the slopes of the eastern ridge of Misses-Tau,
• then crossing the glacier to the left (crevasses, avalanches) with exit under the base of the NE buttress.

200 m below the upper rock island to the right and transition to rocks on the left edge of the buttress base. From the initial bivouac 5 hours.

Further movement along the buttress with general direction left and up with exit to its right edge, subsequently turning into a clearly defined ridge. Along the way, between both edges, a series of more or less clearly defined ridges is overcome. A rock mushroom on the ridge of the NE buttress can serve as a landmark.

Exit to the ridge under the yellow (40 m) wall 15–20 m above the mushroom. The wall is ascended in the center; the overhanging section in the upper part is bypassed to the right. 50–70 m of straightforward climbing after the wall lead to a ledge. Bivouac is possible. From the initial bivouac 12–14 hours.

From the ledge:

• 120–150 m of straightforward climbing,
• then 130–150 m up a steep snow-ice slope to under the first rock pitch.

First 6–7 m to the right, then up the right ice-covered rock wall 30 m. Beyond the pitch:

• 100–120 m along the buttress ridge to a large boulder,
• bypassing it with 20 m traverse to the left,
• then ascent up the ice slope to a terrace under the second rock pitch.

The pitch is ascended via rocks of moderate difficulty, 60 m of the central wall. Then:

• 200–250 m along the snowy ridge (cornices) — to under the third rock pitch, which is ascended directly via difficult rocks,
• then 200–250 m up snow-covered rocks and snow-ice slope to a ledge. From the previous ledge 12–14 hours.

From the ledge:

• 100–120 m along the sharp snowy ridge,
• then along the steep snow-rock ridge to a saddle on the North ridge of Dykh-Tau above "VCSPS overnight stay".

Further — according to description 4.

Recommended itinerary:

• 1st day — approach to the initial bivouac,
• 2nd day — exit to the buttress ridge under the yellow wall,
• 3rd day — ascent along the buttress,
• 4th day — exit to the N ridge of Dykh-Tau, ascent to the summit, descent to the N saddle,
• 5th day — descent to "Russian overnight stay", return to camp.