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Route Description: С гребню
Report on the first ascent to the peak Sovetsky Voin via a Category IIIB route by the MAC "Freeline" team on August 19, 2020
Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for a Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT p. SOVETSKY VOIN VIA THE ROUTE OF 3B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "Freeline" Pyatigorsk on July 19, 2020
I. Climbing Passport
| No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Popov M.L. CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Konstantinov G.A. 2nd sports rank, Klindukhov M.O. 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Motienko N.I. CMS |
| 1.4 | Organization | MAC "Freeline"; AC "Maximum" |
Route Description: С гребню
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Kezgen via the 2A category route by the FRI-LINE MAC team from Pyatigorsk on 11.06.2021
Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes of 1B–3B Category of Difficulty
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KEZGEN VIA ROUTE 2A CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "Freeline" Pyatigorsk 11.06.2021
I. Ascent Passport
| No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Popov M.L., CMS |
Route Description: С стене
Report on the first ascent of the route category 2B on the peak **Mukal** via the north wall, made by the team MAK “Freeline” on 12.06.2021.
Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for a Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MUKAL VIA THE ROUTE OF 2B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAK "Freeline" Pyatigorsk, June 12, 2021
I. Climbing Passport
| No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Popov M.L. CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of the participants | Khlyshch G.A. 2nd sports rank, Lustina S.V. 2nd sports rank, Kovalev R.A. 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | Motienko N.I. CMS |
| 1.4 | Organization | MAK "Freeline" |
Route Description: СВ стене
Report on the first ascent of a category 3A route on the North-Eastern wall of peak Kavkaz West (4037 m) in February 2020.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Zapadny (4037 m) — first passage of the route via the North-Eastern wall, cat. diff. 3A by the team St. Petersburg-2 from February 2 to 3, 2020.
I. Ascent Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Nikolayev Yuriy Aleksandrovich — 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | 1. Bogdanov Kirill Anatolyevich — 1st sports rank 2. Eliseev Sergey Gennadyevich — 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Erofeev Sergey Andreyevich — Candidate Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | Alpine club "Tekhnolog" (St. Petersburg team) |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: Ю ребру
Report on the first ascent of Category 1B route via the southern edge of Teegeneklibashi peak (3502 m) in the Baksan gorge of the Caucasus.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi
via the South Ridge, category 1B (approximately) AM OOO "Alpine Camps Management" "Adyl-Su 2022" December 15, 2022
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Rastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports |
Route Description: 3 гребню
Ascent to Ailama via the Western ridge, a combined route of 4B category of difficulty, including ice-snow and rocky sections.
76. Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty,
fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the
wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big
Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge.
From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy
slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak.
Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks,
600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme.
Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to
Route Description: Ю кф. 3 гребня
Description of the ascent via the western spur of the southern wall of Mt. Ailama by the Kuibyshev Regional Council's "Trud" sports society team in 1966, a category 5A climb.
Description of the First Ascent Route
To the summit of Peak Айлама (Ailama) via the Western spur of the South wall, climbed on July 20-25, 1966, by a team from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society. Ailama is located in the Main Caucasus Range. To the west of the summit, beyond the Unamusso pass ("Бессовестный" or "Shameless"), lies Peak Нуам-Куам (Nuam-Kuam), with a ridge connecting it to the summit of Восточная Шхара (Eastern Shkhara) via peaks 4250 m and 4100 m. Beyond the so-called "saw" of Ailama, the ridge turns south towards the summit of Цурунгал (Tsurungal), and then eastwards through peaks Черная Незнакомка (Black Stranger, пик Алеши Джапаридзе or Aliocha Djaparidze Peak) and Белая Незнакомка (White Stranger) to the Шерри–Вцек (Sherri-Vtsek) pass. The Ailama ridge stretches for a considerable distance. The western ridge has a steepness of up to 55° in its lower half and is characterized by a system of snow and ice undulations with steepness ranging from 25° to 75° in its upper part. The eastern ridge of the summit is primarily rocky and is known as the "Pила Айламы" (Ailama Saw), indicating its highly serrated nature. Along the entire length of the massif's ridge, steep walls with significant relative heights drop to the north and south; those to the north are mostly snow and ice, while those to the south are more rocky. Due to the remoteness of this mountain region from permanent alpine camps, until 1965, only a few sports groups, always consisting of high-class climbers, ascended Ailama. Most of these groups followed the ridge of the massif, undertaking extensive traverses of the crest.
Route Description: Ю ребру
Description of the ascent to the summit of Айлама via the south-eastern ridge, a combined route of 5B category of complexity, time to complete 16-24 hours.
69. Ailama via Southeast Ridge (combination route, E. Abalakov, cat.5B, fig. 5, 15, 16).
From Tsurungalskaya saddle of the Main Caucasus Range (point 65, 63):
- 250–300 m upwards over rocks of medium difficulty below the first rock turret of Ailama Southeast Ridge;
- 200–220 m upwards over rocks of medium-above difficulty and difficult rocks, corners, couloirs to the turret's shoulder;
- 50–60 m along a narrow ledge on the left from the shoulder;
- 120 m upwards over snowcovered, destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the couloir to the snow col behind the I turret.
Route Description: центру С стены
Description of the ascent made by the team of the All-Union School of Instructors to the summit of **Aylama** via the center of the North face in 1983, a 5B category difficulty route.
Climbing Passport
- Snow and ice class.
- Central Caucasus, Dykh-Su valley.
- Peak Aylama via the center of the North face.
- Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
- Elevation gain: 1475 m, route length — 2333 m. Average steepness of main sections — 53°. Including 6th category sections up to 95° — 27 m.
- Pitons driven: rock — 5 bolt hangers — 3
Route Description: СВ гребню
Ascent to the summit of Herzog via the Northeast Ridge: route, difficulty categories, recommendations for climbers, and necessary equipment.
Fig.
13
Fig. 14
3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)
From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: