- Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge.
From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak. Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks, 600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme. Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to the right side of the wide saddle below the Big Gendarme. On the saddle, turn right and ascend 80–100 m along the snowy, then simple rocky West Ridge to the Big Gendarme. Without reaching its summit, traverse right, passing bivouac sites, bypassing the second tooth of the gendarme on the right, and the third on the left, to reach a connecting ridge (cornice) below the summit ascent.
From the plateau, 2.5–4 hours.
The ascent to the connecting ridge is also possible via the snowy couloir (chute, avalanches) to the right of the Big Gendarme. Along the narrow (cornices) 60-meter connecting ridge, approach the ascent of the West Ridge. Rocky sites on the rocky outcrop on the right side of the West Ridge ascent are exposed to falling stones.
From the connecting ridge, ascend 140–150 m along the steep snowy West Ridge, bypassing the I and II rocky outcrops on the right, to below the overhanging walls of the III outcrop. The 80-meter III outcrop is initially bypassed on the left along the steep snowy slope, and then via rocks of medium and above medium difficulty. Further, 40 m along the snowy slope to below the IV outcrop, which is also bypassed on the left, and from it, 40 m to below the long V outcrop. Along the steep broken rocks of the outcrop, 60–80 m straight up. Further, along the wide snowy West Ridge with several ascents (cornices), 800–1000 m, ascend to the summit of Aylama.
List of route sections:
- Ascent from the connecting ridge to the West Ridge (140–150 m)
- Bypassing I and II rocky outcrops on the right
- Bypassing III outcrop: initially on the left along the snowy slope, then via rocks (medium and above medium difficulty)
- Ascent 40 m along the snowy slope to below IV outcrop
- Bypassing IV outcrop on the left
- Ascent 40 m to below V outcrop
- Ascent along steep broken rocks of V outcrop (60–80 m)
- Movement along the wide snowy West Ridge (800–1000 m) with several ascents (cornices) to the summit of Aylama
From the point of reaching the West Ridge, 5–7 hours.
Fig. 17.
