30. UILPATA via the North-Eastern Wall

(combined route, category 5A difficulty) The ascent starts from the tourist center (KSP) of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac via the Uishatinsky glacier and the Southern and North-Western glaciers. From the Vorobyevsky overnight camps (protected from avalanches and rockfalls), cross the Vorobyev glacier and approach the wide snow-and-ice couloir of the North-Eastern wall. From the glacier, ascend via an avalanche gully, bergschrund, and ice-and-snow slope, then via smooth rocks (potential rockfall) to the wall on the left side of the couloir. From the couloir, move upwards via a steep ice gully (avalanches possible). From here:

• 20 m straight up via difficult smooth rocks with few holds (artificial handholds);
• 20 m via difficult rocks straight up under the ice formations on the right;
• then traverse left along rocky balconies;
• then ascend via a vertical inner corner to an ice ledge (avalanches possible);

III. Uipata via the Third Buttress of the Yemnogogreben Ridge

(combined route, category 5A) From Uilpatin sleeping sites (or from Khosinn) the movement goes in the direction of the confluence of two couloirs that skirt the Central Buttress, and further to the beginning of the Central Ridge (buttress). The entry onto the rocks is carried out in the lower part of a large internal angle, further movement goes vertically upwards through the internal angle for 40 m. Then - along a steep shelf to the right for 10 m, exit onto несложные скалы (easy rocks), along which you need to go up to the ridge of the buttress for 60 m. After exiting onto the ridge of the buttress, you need to overcome a wall 10 m high, at the top of which on a rocky shoulder there is a control cairn. Relatively complex sections at the stage up to the I control cairn:

• Vertical movement upwards through the internal angle (40 m)
• Overcoming a steep shelf to the right (10 m)
• Ascending easy rocks to the ridge of the buttress (60 m)
• Overcoming a wall (10 m) to the control cairn TRAVERSING to the right in the upper part of the vertical angle (internal) and exit to the wall to the I cairn.

Уилпата, 2-й к.с. По северо-западному контрфорсу Южного гребня, 55

From the Vilpata bivouacs (departure at 3:00–4:00 at night due to rockfall in the couloir) across the snowy plateau of the North Branch:

• Go around a long ridge descending to the North Branch to the right of the counterforts of the Vilpata South Ridge on the left.
• Turn right and ascend along a gentle snowy slope of a wide couloir between the bases of the counterforts of the South Ridge on the left and the long ridge on the right.
• Having passed the base of the Second counterfort of the South Ridge, turn left and approach the right side of a narrow snowy couloir between the Second and

Ascent Record

1. Technical category.
2. Caucasus, Tsey Range.
3. Uilpata (4649 m), via the 1st buttress of the South Ridge.
4. Proposed category: 5A–5B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1050 m; route length: 1640 m. Length of 5–6 category sections: 35 m. Average slope: 50° for the main part of the route, 45° for the entire route (from the bergschrund).
6. Pitons used:
   • rock pitons — 17
   • chocks — 29

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — CAUCASUS, Tsey ridge.
3. Peak UILPATA, 4646 m, via the South ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Length — 1409 m.

Fig. 32 143. Ularg (4358 m) via the East Ridge (combined route by Mitchell, category III, Fig. 32). The path from the Tsейsky District base camp (group of 4–8 people) to the Artsyshevsky Peak with the initial bivouac at the Volginsky bivouac is described in route 142. From the Artsyshevsky Peak, descend along the snowy slope of the East Ridge (cornices) to under the Kvadratny Dzhandarm. Bypass the dzhandarm on the left along the destroyed, crumbly rocks. Behind it, exit into the couloir onto the col under the II dzhandarm and bypass it on the right with a traverse (20°) and along the snowy slope (with belay). Further along the sharp snowy ridge (cornices), approach the dzhandarm "Vilka", pass it in the center through the fork, and descend to the col of the East Ridge. From the col, ascend 100–120 m upwards along the narrow, sometimes steep snowy East Ridge or along its left side (cornices — piton belay). Along the heavily destroyed, simple, sometimes snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Ularg. From the Volginsky bivouac, it takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3 days.

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. Ullarg via the Northwest Buttress by a group of climbers MOS DSO "Trud"

§ 1. Geographical description of the area and sporting characteristics of the region

The summit of Ullarg (4320 m) is located in a lateral spur of the main Caucasian ridge, beyond the peaks of Uilpata and Songuti-khokh. The peaks of Arcihevskogo and Oni-Ani follow after Ullarg. The Ullarg region is still poorly explored from the north. It is far from active camps, and there are no convenient approaches. The only relatively easy access is from the northeast, from the villages of Dunta and Komunta, along the Songuti-don river. The path from the villages of Dunta and Komunta is long and difficult to traverse. ¹

I35. Ularg via the Northwest Counterfort

(combined route, 5A category of difficulty) The path from the base camp on the Songuti River or from the Ceysky district KSP to the initial bivouac on the rocky ledges under the North wall of Ularg peak. From the ledges, along the snowy slope of the glacier (closed crevasses), approach the left side of the Northwest counterfort of Ularg peak. From the glacier, crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the 80-meter ice-and-snow slope to the rocks on the left side of the Northwest counterfort, 40 m to the left and above its rocky base. Along smooth slabs with a limited number of holds, steep, partially icy rocks of medium difficulty with a 10-meter wall of above-average difficulty above, then along heavily broken simple and medium-difficulty shelves and rocks — "live" stones 60–80 m up and to the right along the left side of the Northwest counterfort. Then traverse 40 m to the right, bypassing the "reddish" gendarme, to the right side of the Northwest counterfort. Along steep rocks of above-average difficulty on the right side of the counterfort, ascend 40 m to a narrow couloir. Up the difficult rocks of the vertical narrow couloir 80 m to a scree shelf on its right side. — The key point of the route, possible rockfalls, falling ice fragments — Along a snowy, scree-sloping shelf 40 m up and to the right. From the end of the shelf, ascend along difficult rocks with a small number of holds, a 60–70-meter wall with a shelf in the middle part. Further:

• along rocks of medium difficulty,
• then along the boundary of ice and rocks, exit to an inclined shelf crossing the Northwest counterfort.

163. Ular­g — Songuti (combined route by R. Andreev, cat. 4B). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ular­g via the East ridge is described in route 143. From the summit of Ular­g, descend along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge ("live" stones) towards Pik Komsomolets. Then descend left along the snowy couloir to a snowy saddle and along it (cornice) approach Pik Komsomolets. From the saddle:

• along the ice-snow ridge,
• then along simple rocks — ascend to Pik Komsomolets. From Pik Komsomolets:
• along simple rocks,
• then along the snowy ridge — descend to the snowy saddle. Along the saddle (cornices) approach the Black Gendarme. Traverse the Black Gendarme from the right along a steep ice-snow slope for 65–70 m along the rocks (pitons), then 100–120 m along steep rocks.

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.