1. Ular­g — Songuti (combined route by R. Andreev, cat. 4B).

The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ular­g via the East ridge is described in route 143.

From the summit of Ular­g, descend along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge ("live" stones) towards Pik Komsomolets. Then descend left along the snowy couloir to a snowy saddle and along it (cornice) approach Pik Komsomolets.

From the saddle:

  • along the ice-snow ridge,
  • then along simple rocks — ascend to Pik Komsomolets.

From Pik Komsomolets:

  • along simple rocks,
  • then along the snowy ridge — descend to the snowy saddle.

Along the saddle (cornices) approach the Black Gendarme. Traverse the Black Gendarme from the right along a steep ice-snow slope for 65–70 m along the rocks (pitons), then 100–120 m along steep rocks.

Crossing the ice couloir, ascend along rocks of medium difficulty with short walls of above-average difficulty (pitons), to the snowy ridge of the saddle behind the Black Gendarme.

From Ular­g, 8–12 hours.

From here, along a steep snowy ridge (cornices), approach the rocky tower of the Songuti summit. From the ridge, exit onto a ledge on the left side of the summit tower and along rocks of medium difficulty on a slanting ledge approach the saddle between the summit towers of Songuti. The further ascent to the summit of Songuti and descent along the South ridge are described in routes 102, 99.

Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Sources

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