Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category - combined. 2. Climbing area - Khibiny Mountains 3. Peak, its height, and route - Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr, via the Left Edge of the Eastern wall of Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr; 1068.2 m. 4. Expected difficulty category - 3A cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 750 m. Length of sections: 1 - 120 m 2 - 450 m 3 - 100 m

Route on Vudyavrcorr (1B) via the left part of the right bastion in the wall, 4A ("chestnaya devushka")

View from below: the route line, pitches, and belay stations. The idea to go on this climb during the winter season had been ripening for a long time. The description had been lying in my folder since last year. Back then, the conditions were bad, and we didn't end up doing it. This year, everything was different. I immediately decided that we would go calmly, with processing, over 2 days. The route was well-suited for this:

• up to R9, almost everything is on snow;
• then a cave;
• further, 6.5 ropes — the rock part. Moreover, it was highly motivating that the report was promised to be published in St. Petersburg: there was no need to rack our brains over who to take, with whom to meet, and on which routes — we could work calmly. As we were gathering, adjustments were made: the team composition changed and shrunk, but overall, nothing prevented us from starting the route. On April 5, we climbed the Avalanche Couloir. We examined the route from below and above, took photos. The first impression: there's a lot of snow. But there's no pronounced overhanging snow above this part of the bastion.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class — ice and snow. 2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains. 3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via "Zigzag" couloir on the wall of Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 1154 m. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Length of sections, category difficulty:

• I — 500 m
• II — 500 m
• III — 100 m Average slope: overall 50°

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains
3. Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via the center of the North face of the East ridge of Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 1143.5 m
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B category
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Walls: Length of sections, difficulty category: II — 800 m, III — 80 m Average wall steepness: overall 60°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent region — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, along the N wall of the E ridge of Takhtarvumchorr ridge; 1143.5 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m. walls — Route length: rock/snow and ice. II — 350 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — combined.
2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, "Otkol" on Takhtarvumchorr ridge via the E wall; 1143.5 m.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 3A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 850 m. Length of sections by cat. diff.:

• II — 500 m
• III — 250 m

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — combined.
2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via the "Otkola" couloir to the Takhtarvumchorr ridge crest, 1143.5 m.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m. Walls: Length of sections, cat. diff.:
   • 2 — 151
   • 3 — 500

106 Ascent Passport

1. Region: Khibiny Mountains Valley: valley of Maly Vudyavr lake, southern cirque of Takhtarvumchorr ridge Section number according to KMGV-2001: 8.6.
2. Peak name: Takhtarvumchorr ridge, height: 1143 m Route name: via the left part of the central counterfort of the eastern wall of the southern cirque
3. Proposed: 2B category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Character of the route in winter: combined Character of the route in summer: rock
5. Elevation gain of the route: 500 m (by altimeter)

Report on the first ascent of the route to Yukspor (1,037 m) via the right-hand part of the SW ridge (“Surovaia zhenshchina” - "Severe Woman"), approximately category 2A difficulty.

Climbing Passport

1. Khibiny, section number 8.6.
2. Yukspor - 1,037 m; via the right-hand part of the SW ridge.
3. Proposed category 2A; first winter ascent.
4. Nature of the route - combined.
5. Height difference on the route - 600 m. Route length: 730 m. Length of sections with category 3 difficulty - 20 m. Steepness of the key part of the route - 75°; average steepness of the entire route about 45°.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: