Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — combined.
2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, "Otkol" on Takhtarvumchorr ridge via the E wall; 1143.5 m.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 3A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 850 m.

Length of sections by cat. diff.:

• II — 500 m
• III — 250 m
• 4 — 80 m
• 5 — 10 m

Average slope: overall 55°. 6. Pitons driven: for rock protection — 34 chocks — 2 ice screws — 2 Including used for artificial protection points — 3 7. Total climbing time — 4 h 30 min. 8. Last name, first name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

1. Shumilov Oleg Ivanovich — leader, Master of Sports
2. Proskura Alexander Yakovlevich — participant, 1st sports category
3. Team coach — Shumilov Oleg Ivanovich — leader, Master of Sports.
4. Dates: February 21, 1992.

February 21, 1992. Description of the first ascent of a 3B category difficulty route, a combined route, the "Otkol" on Takhtarvumchorr ridge via the E wall.

Ascent team:

1. Shumilov O.I. — Master of Sports — 1st category instructor
2. Proskura A.Ya. — 1st sports category — 3rd category instructor

From the foot of the mountain, 200 m on snow, 40 m on ice covered with snow, we reach a chimney filled with snow and clogged with rocks (3 pitons), 14:40. Then up the chimney with 40 m of flow ice (pitons for protection) — 5 pitons. The next 40 m up the chimney with vertical pitches, after which we reach a 3x3 m ledge. The chimney (inner corner) is 60° steep. 15:55. Above the ledge on the wall is control cairn #1 (can on a piton). Further, 20 m — chimney (inner corner) — 60°, 10 m — vertical wall, 10 m — chimney (inner corner) — piton protection (5 pitons). After the next 10 m up the chimney (inner corner) (2 pitons) to a small wall, we bypass it on a ledge to the left — 5 m, then up to the left — 5 m to gentler slabs, ice, snow. Protection via ice axe, ice screws. On the gentler slabs of the main ledge — 40 m to a gray wall (5 pitons used on this section). Bypassing the gray wall to the left — 40 m. Further, 3 rope lengths on snow slightly up to the right, then another rope length to gentle rocks — protection via ice axes, exit to the next gray pitch, which we climb directly via inner corners (7 pitons used). At the bottom under the wall, under a cornice, is the 2nd control cairn. The wall is 50 m. After the wall, the counterfort becomes gentler, resembling a ridge. On the counterfort, first 30 m to the right of it, then exit onto it to the left and up — 5 m (2 pitons). Further on snowy fields to the left of the counterfort (avalanche risk). Then on the ridge for 80 m with a slope of 55° — protection via rock outcrops, ice axe, pitons (5 pitons). Then on the ridge with a slope of 30° to a wall with a slope of 60–65° — 20 m and exit onto the "Otkol" plateau to a control cairn. 20:10. Descent via 1B to the Geographers' pass.

Pitons driven: 34; 2 — chocks; 3 — ice screws. Route length — 825 m. Time taken to complete the route — 5 h 30 min.

Equipment

1. Main rope — 1 x 40 m — 12 mm. FR2 — 1 pc.
2. Disposable cordelette — 5 m.
3. Ice axes — 2 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 18 pcs.
5. Ice screws — 3 pcs.
6. Crampons — 2 pairs.
7. Carabiners — 25 pcs.
8. First aid kit — 1 set.
9. Down jackets, warm clothing — 2 sets.
10. Backpacks — 2 pcs.
11. Skis — 2 pairs.
12. Ski poles — 2 pairs.
13. Windproof masks — 2 pcs.
14. Ski goggles — 2 pcs.
15. Tent — 1 pc.
16. Harness — 2 pcs.
17. Extension slings — 5 pcs.
18. Self-belay slings — 2 pcs.
19. Stove — 1 pc.
20. Fur mittens — 2 pairs.
21. Matches, candles.
22. Headlamps — 2 pcs.
23. Cookware — 1 pc., thermos — 1 pc.
24. Chocks — 10 pcs.
25. Prusiks — 4 pcs.
26. Helmets — 2 pcs.
27. Chock retrieval device.
28. Rock hammer — 1 pc.
29. Ice hammer — 1 pc.