Ascent to the summit — DVUZUBKA from the Ivizak peak — 1B category of difficulty. The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located under the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should:

• go up along the Igizak River
• first along grassy slopes and scree
• then, after 40–50 minutes of movement, cross to the left bank of the river
• begin the ascent up the steep western slope of the valley The slope has rock outcrops. Further ascent on snow leads to the Big Igizak cirque and the Dvuzybka on the plateau. Between the peaks of Bolshoy Igizak and Dvuzybka, there is an unnamed peak. The ascent to Dvuzybka should be made from the saddle between the unnamed peak (Dvuzybka pass). The exit to the pass is on snow. From the pass:
• to the right along the scree,
• then along easy rocks, ascend along the ridge. Then the ridge narrows, and small walls up to 2 m appear. Insurance is simultaneous. Before the summit, you should descend into a shallow depression to the right along a ledge, as the ridge has steep walls to the left. The ascent to the summit from the saddle is 5 m along moderately difficult rocks.

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR 1988 ROCK CLIMBING CLASS 1st place.

Report

On the ascent to the summit 4230 m (Asan) via the center of the Northwest wall Team of the Alpine Club of the 12th Sports Club of the SAVO Team leader: Ovcharenko S.V. Senior coach: Ilyinsky E.T., Honored Coach of the USSR

1. 1

1.1

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of DALAR from the West along the rocky triangle of the Western wall a group of instructors from the mountaineering camp of CS DSO “Spartak” senior instructor ZHEMCHUZHNIKOV Yu.A., instructor LEONOVICH O.A. July 20–23, 1975

Route progression

Day 1 (July 20)

We left the Uzunkol mountaineering camp at 2:30, planning that an early arrival at the bivouac under the route would allow us to process the beginning of the wall. However, the approach took us longer than we expected: heavy backpacks significantly slowed our pace. We arrived at the bivouac at the end of the moraine on the plateau under the wall at 17:30.

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Technical Class 2024. Report on the Ascent to Mt. Dalar via the East Ridge (Kavunenko Route, 1964) 5A Category of Complexity.

I. Ascent Passport

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship 2020 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to Dalar peak (3979 m) via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana), category 5A. The route was completed by the team of the Alpine Federation of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg 2020

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar Pass to Chiperezaou Pass. Section No. 2.3 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Dalar peak (3979 m), via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana).
3. Category of complexity — 5A.

Ascent Passport

I. Rock climbing category 2. Caucasus. From Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass. 3. Dalar peak (3979 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder. 4. Difficulty category - 5B (third ascent of the route) 5. Route characteristics: height difference R0–R15 - 700 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 610 m, including 400 m on the shoulder wall R0–R12, average steepness of the shoulder wall R0–R12 - 81°. 6. Pitons hammered: for rock protection (including chocks) 99(35), for creating artificial support points 10(4), ice screws (on descent) - (4), bolt pitons - - 7. Total climbing hours - 23 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two good bivouacs in a tent.

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Caucasus, Uzukol region.
3. Peak "Dalar", center of the northern wall of the bastion.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length - 1825 m (1935 m). Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 695 m. Average steepness of the main sections 85° (2900-3560 m): including sections with 6 category of difficulty - 415 m (2900-3080 m, 3110-3170 m, 3245-3270 m, 3300-3350 m, 3420-3525 m); 87° (2900-3080 m, 3300-3350 m, 3420-3525 m); 90° (3110-3170 m); 92° (3245-3270 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :----: | :----: | :--: |

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Western Caucasus, Kichkinekol gorge.
3. Peak "Dalar", via the northern wall, Snesarev's route.
4. Third ascent — Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain — 895 m, length — 1050 m. Length of sections: Category 6 difficulty — 570 m. Average steepness of the route is 75°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock — 250
   • bolted — 5 (x)