Report

Team of the Republic of Tatarstan on the ascent to Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m via the northern wall couloir, 5B category of difficulty (G.Barber's route) on March 14, 2019. Team leader Coach Kazan 2019

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai valley, 7.4
2. Object of ascent — Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the northern wall couloir (G.Barber's route)
3. Category of difficulty — 5B
4. Route type — ice and snow

The team's departure for the route was scheduled for July 29, 1985, between 3:00–4:00, on the same day as the teams from RSFSR and Ukrainian SSR. The choice of the route to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the north face (Myshliaev's route) was made for the most objective comparison and visibility of the team's actions on the route relative to the two other teams following parallel routes (Bezzubkin, Popenko). Moreover, the choice of the route and simultaneous departure for the ascent ensured coordinated actions in case of the need for assistance, as the teams were within visibility and voice communication range. Due to the late dawn, the team departed from the "Koronskie" overnight camps at 4:00. No route processing was conducted. On the day of approach, visual observations were made of the planned ascent route. No rockfall was noted. At 5:00, the Avtomonov–Bershov team began crossing the bergschrund and subsequent movement along the ice slope (section R0–R2), installing fixed ropes. All participants traversed this section in crampons. The first climber used:

• ice axe
• ice screws
• screw and ice piton hooks.

Description

of the ascent to the peak "SEL'MASHEVETS" 2–6 category of difficulty. 14200 15 — 3–63 From the city of Frunze, we arrive at the "Issyk-Ata" resort. From the resort, the path lies along the right (orographic) bank of the river to the edge of the forest, located on the left bank of the river. From here, a view opens up to the gorge and the peak "KONEV" (on the right). At this point, we should cross to the left bank of the river, where we can make a halt. In the middle of the "Issyk-Ata" gorge stands the peak "BOTVEY", with sheer walls dividing the gorge into two branches. From the halt, the path goes through the meadow in the direction of the right branch of the gorge. Having reached a large boulder standing alone on the meadow, we turn left and descend down the scree to the river. Further, the path goes upstream along the river under the overhanging bank. At this point, we should be particularly cautious and attentive, as rockfalls or landslides are possible, especially after rain. We cross to the right bank of the river and ascend to the foot of a steep moraine, where we can rest at the edge of the forest. The approach to the moraine takes 4–5 hours. The ascent up the moraine is done closer to the left (in the direction of travel) side. The gorge gradually narrows. We overcome the last moraine ridge and enter the "BOTVEY" cirque. The ascent up the moraine to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. We set up camp on the "BOTVEY" glacier near the lake. The campsite is very convenient and safe. It takes 10–15 minutes to walk from the tents to the foot of the pass. The ascent to the pass via the middle scree takes about an hour. We form rope teams on the pass. The path from the pass goes along the scree beside the rocky outcrops — gendarmes — on the right (in the direction of travel) side. The movement along this section includes the following stages:

• The first and second gendarmes are bypassed with belay through rocky outcrops.

Route Description by Sections

Sec. 0–I. The beginning of the route — approaching the wall via an icy slope. Simultaneous movement, insurance through ice screws. Sec. I–6. Rocky bastion, a series of internal corners and walls with steepness up to 70–80°. Very complex rocks, limited number of holds and cracks. Use of thin pitons and small stoppers. Passage in artificial terrain (ИТО). Preliminary processing of this section is recommended. Alternating movement. A control cairn is left on the rocky ledge to the left of a pronounced grotto. Sec. 6–12. A series of walls and shelves leading to the key point of the route. Initially, a smooth rocky wall with a limited selection of cracks and small holds. Passage in ИТО. Further, via "sheep's foreheads" (бараньи лбы), approach under a vertical plate with a narrow crack. In the upper part:

• the crack turns into an overhanging chimney with a plug.
• Free climbing is practically impossible due to the lack of holds (only undercuts).
• For insurance — a single wedge-shaped crevice with an overhang, where only "Friends" (Френды) hold.
• Passage in ИТО. A cairn is left at the end of the section.

Description of the ascent to Peak Taranovoi via the North Ridge From the "Ala-Archa" alpine camp, the trail goes up the gorge. We ford the Ak-Sai River by stepping on stones. Further on, we follow a good trail to the Teke-Tor River, which is also easily forded a little above its confluence with the Ala-Archa River. Before reaching the Tuyuk-Su River, the trail turns left up a steep grassy slope. We set up a bivouac by a lake located before a steep rise of the old moraine. From the alpine camp to the moraine, it takes 4 hours of walking. From the bivouac, we ascend via the trail to the left of the lake onto the old moraine. We overcome another rise of the moraine and reach the river. We walked along the right bank of the river to the glacier. Having ascended onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier, we ascend via the middle part of the glacier, which is the most gentle. Crevasses are circumvented. We orient ourselves towards the snowy dome of the "School 67" peak. To the left lies the Taranovoi Pass, and further left, the peak is visible. The ascent route to Peak Taranovoi via category 1B route is visible. We continue moving along the glacier towards the North edge of this peak. A bergschrund is visible. We cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge. Insurance is provided through an ice axe. After the bergschrund, we ascend a 50-60 m ice slope with a 30-35° incline onto a saddle on the North ridge of Peak Taranovoi. Piton insurance is used. It takes 3 hours 30 minutes from the bivouac by the lake to the saddle.

по пол­кам или кру­тым глад­ким пли­там does not need translation as the original text is in Russian. Here is the translation: along shelves or steep smooth plates. Careful belaying with pitons. Then through (a sleeping window) we exit onto a 5-meter rocky ridge, which we traversed with a rope. Further on, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty. There are two 7–8 meter walls, which are taken head-on — 3 rock pitons. Through simple rocks, we exit onto the summit. Control point. We found a note from a group of climbers from the Kyrgyz State University, who made an ascent to Peak I May in 1957 via the Southwest Ridge, route category 1B. The ascent from the col to the summit took 7 hours.

Lo­ca­tion. The Peak 30 let VLKSM is lo­ca­t­ed on the ridge of the Ja­la­my­sh­sky spur of the Kyrgyz Range and is its first peak to the north of the junction, where this spur branches off in a practically meridional direction from the So­ku­luk­sky spur. To the north of the peak, its other neighbor, the Pan­filov Peak, rises. From the summit to the east, a counter­fors runs, which flows along the Yu. Ady­gene gla­cier, making a turn to the north. The entire northern slope of the counter­fors is co­ver­ed with a han­ging gla­cier, which forms a small gla­cier at the foot. The western slope of the peak is steep and dissected by numerous rocky ribs made of cry­stal­line chlo­rite schists. Ex­ter­nally, the summit re­semb­les a re­gular three-faced py­ra­mid and is well vis­i­ble from the entire Ady­ge­ne area.

As­cent via the North Ridge

The rou­te, like the pre­vi­ous one, starts from the "Elektro" camp­si­te and coin­ci­des with it in the ini­tial part. Af­ter the slope of the Elektro peak turns to the west, you should not go to the left mo­re­ne of the Yu. Ady­ge­ne gla­cier. You need to con­tin­ue mo­ving along the same hol­low in the south­ern di­rec­tion, where the beau­ti­ful py­ra­mid — the goal of the as­cent — is al­most al­ways vis­i­ble. The hol­low leads to the val­ley be­tween the Pan­filov Peak and the Peak 30 let VLKSM, which forms two cham­bers here:

• the north­ern one
• the south­ern one, ad­ja­cent di­rectly to the Peak 30 let VLKSM From this val­ley, the bot­tom of which is paved with mo­ren­ic ridges, it is nec­es­sary to as­cend to the ridge con­nect­ing the two men­tioned sum­mits. There are two vari­ants of the path to this ridge:
• The first one: along the slope with an exit to the col (the 30 let VLKSM pass) from the south­ern cham­ber. The path to the pass runs along a loose scree.

Climbing Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley
2. Peak — Trezubets 4500 m, right couloir, N side, 5A cat.
3. Proposed — 5A cat., first ascent
4. Route type — combined
5. Route description: elevation gain — 560 m, route length — 820 m, length of 5th cat. sections — 470 m, average slope — 55°, main part 65°
6. Equipment left on the route: total 2 rappel rings. Used stationary pitons — 0, removable pitons — 0. Total IT used — 0
7. Total climbing time — 14:30, days — 1

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
2. Peak — Trident 4500 m, right couloir, N face, 5A
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 560 m. route length — 820 m. length of 5th category sections — 470 m. average steepness — 55°, main part — 65°
6. Left on the route: total 2 rappel rings. Used stationary pitons — 0, removable pitons — 0. Total usage of

Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B

Route description:

Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder. From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty. The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope. Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.