Route Description by Sections

Sec. 0–I. The beginning of the route — approaching the wall via an icy slope. Simultaneous movement, insurance through ice screws.

Sec. I–6. Rocky bastion, a series of internal corners and walls with steepness up to 70–80°. Very complex rocks, limited number of holds and cracks. Use of thin pitons and small stoppers. Passage in artificial terrain (ИТО). Preliminary processing of this section is recommended. Alternating movement. A control cairn is left on the rocky ledge to the left of a pronounced grotto.

Sec. 6–12. A series of walls and shelves leading to the key point of the route. Initially, a smooth rocky wall with a limited selection of cracks and small holds. Passage in ИТО.

Further, via "sheep's foreheads" (бараньи лбы), approach under a vertical plate with a narrow crack. In the upper part:

• the crack turns into an overhanging chimney with a plug.
• Free climbing is practically impossible due to the lack of holds (only undercuts).
• For insurance — a single wedge-shaped crevice with an overhang, where only "Friends" (Френды) hold.
• Passage in ИТО.

A cairn is left at the end of the section.

Sec. 12–14. A series of walls and shelves. Alternating movement, insurance through pitons and chocks.

Comfortable sites for overnight stays.

Team's overnight stay.

Sec. 14–20. Rocky edge with gendarmes, followed by an approach to a complex section.

Steep rope at the exit from the bastion (here the route connects with the route on the left part of the western wall, category 5Б, KTMGV №7.4.152).

Climbing is complex, use of ИТО.

A control cairn at the top of the bastion.

Sec. 20–25. Snow-ice slope with rocky outcrops, followed by snowy rocks of category III–IV. Exit to the summit.

Descent from the summit via a route of category ЗА to the hut on the moraine of the Uчитель glacier.