Location. The Peak 30 let VLKSM is located on the ridge of the Jalamyshsky spur of the Kyrgyz Range and is its first peak to the north of the junction, where this spur branches off in a practically meridional direction from the Sokuluksky spur. To the north of the peak, its other neighbor, the Panfilov Peak, rises. From the summit to the east, a counterfors runs, which flows along the Yu. Adygene glacier, making a turn to the north. The entire northern slope of the counterfors is covered with a hanging glacier, which forms a small glacier at the foot. The western slope of the peak is steep and dissected by numerous rocky ribs made of crystalline chlorite schists.
Externally, the summit resembles a regular three-faced pyramid and is well visible from the entire Adygene area.
Ascent via the North Ridge
The route, like the previous one, starts from the "Elektro" campsite and coincides with it in the initial part. After the slope of the Elektro peak turns to the west, you should not go to the left morene of the Yu. Adygene glacier. You need to continue moving along the same hollow in the southern direction, where the beautiful pyramid — the goal of the ascent — is almost always visible.
The hollow leads to the valley between the Panfilov Peak and the Peak 30 let VLKSM, which forms two chambers here:
- the northern one
- the southern one, adjacent directly to the Peak 30 let VLKSM
From this valley, the bottom of which is paved with morenic ridges, it is necessary to ascend to the ridge connecting the two mentioned summits. There are two variants of the path to this ridge:
- The first one: along the slope with an exit to the col (the 30 let VLKSM pass) from the southern chamber. The path to the pass runs along a loose scree.
- The second path runs along the ridge of a small spur dividing the northern and southern chambers of the valley. The second path is less loose. It leads to the same ridge 100 m north of the 30 let VLKSM pass, and the path along it to the pass is simple: a wide, almost not lowering ridge without rocky outcrops.
To reach the ridge from the "Elektro" campsite takes about 4 hours of work.
The entire difficulty of the ascent begins from the pass. It is necessary to traverse along the sharp ridge with a steepness of approximately 30–40°. To the west, towards the Jalamyshsky gorge, it ends in a steep, almost vertical wall. The rocks are loose, consisting of crystalline schists. To the east, closer to the summit, on the north-east, small rocky ribs run down from the ridge, between which the slope is covered with ice, merging after the end of the ribs into a single hanging glacier on the northern slope of the eastern counterfors of the Peak 30 let VLKSM. The places where the ribs merge with the rocky northern ridge of the peak are sometimes crowned with small gendarmes.
The entire route is very loose and requires the most careful belay. In some years, the couloirs between the ribs and on the ridge are filled with ice, and then, beside ropes, ice axes and crampons will be required. It is useful to pack:
- 1–2 ice hooks
- a hammer
- a pair of carabiners
for organizing additional belay and perils in such places (for a group of 4 people).
The described path belongs to the routes of category 2B. The ascent takes about 7 hours. Descent along the path of ascent. Descent via the eastern, easier path reduces the difficulty by half a category.
From the website mountain.in.kg