Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Pioneer

via the right edge of the South Face Category 4A difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioneer 4031 m, via the right edge of the South Face
3. Proposed: Category 4A difficulty

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — rock
2. Region — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Tuyuk-Su gorge.
3. Peak — Tuyuk-Su, 4218 m, eastern spur of the northern ridge, combined route.
4. Proposed complexity category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m length — 900 m average steepness — 41° length of the wall section of the eastern spur — 370 m

Bypass the Маметовой rock from the left (in the direction of travel) on a trail, then bypass the massif of Учитель and Пионер peaks from the right and ascend to the Героев Панфиловцев pass along the scree. From the pass, ascend via a couloir that goes left towards the base of a chimney. R0–R1

• Ascend the chimney (15 m, II).
• The chimney is blocked by a chockstone; bypass it on the right and traverse right for a few meters.
• Station on a ledge. R1–R2
• Climb a wall (20 m, II) leftwards up to a ledge with pitons.

Fizkulturnik - Chkalova, traverse, category 2B

Route description

From the initial bivouac in the Talgar Pass area, move along the Bogdanovich Glacier towards the saddle between Peak Komsomola and Fizkulturnik peak. From there, ascend to the ridge of Fizkulturnik peak, approach its base, and ascend to the southeastern summit. After descending, move along a relatively easy ridge towards the western summit of the Fizkulturnik massif. After ascending and descending from it, cross the cirque and ascend to the northeastern summit of Fizkulturnik. Then, the ridge, gradually rising, leads to the main summit. From it, descend to a sub-summit and continue descending to the left. The first gendarme after the main summit can be overcome directly or bypassed from the southern side (cautiously!). When ascending to the saddle between the first and second gendarmes, the section is hazardous (rockfall), and the rocks are heavily destroyed. The second gendarme is taken directly with thorough belaying. When descending from it, belaying is necessary; it is also possible to bypass it from the right - only if there is a deep snow cover closing the crevices. The following sections of the route:

• A gentle snow plateau in the upper reaches of the Til Glacier;
• Ascend between groups of rocks along snow-covered slabs;
• Move to the saddle between Fizkulturnik and Chkalova peaks;

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class

• rock

2. Ascent Area

• Trans-Ili Alatau

3. Summit

• B. Khmelnitskogo, 4150 m; Eastern Ridge.

4. Estimated Difficulty Category

• 1B

5. Route Characteristics:

Chkalova, 1B cat. diff. from the west

Route description.

From the Chimbulak ski resort, ascend to the Talgar Pass. In the southeast direction, beyond the tongue of the Bogdanovich Glacier, the hanging Til Glacier is visible. Follow the trail between Shkolnik Peak (on the right) and a rocky outcrop (on the left) to reach the glacier, and, crossing it, approach the rocks to the left of the Til Glacier. After traversing about 50 meters across the "ram's foreheads," reach an inclined ledge. Follow the ledge to reach a scree couloir, and ascend it to a snowy plateau. Cross the plateau in an easterly direction and approach a couloir descending between the summit and the ridge. Moving up the couloir (avalanche risk!), reach a narrow couloir branching off to the left. Enter this couloir and ascend, turning right. Continue up moderately difficult rock terrain to reach the summit. Descend via the ascent route.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at Talgar Pass.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peak — Chkalov Peak, height — 3892 m, route — along the northern ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 700 m.
   • Average steepness — 45°.
   • Sections of 5th category of difficulty are absent
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Log

Ascent Category	— rock climbing
Ascent Area	— Trans-Ili Alatau
Peak	— Shkolnik, 3850 m North-West ridge, 2A category of difficulty (preliminary)
Route characteristics: elevation gain average steepness	— 350 m — 40°–45°
Pitons hammered in	— two — two chocks
Number of travel hours Number of overnight stays	— eight — none
Full name of the leader	— Pitersov V.V. — 1st sports category; Fedorov V.L. — 1st sports category
Team coach	— Public Rescue Team under KSP

Ascent Passport

1. Class: ice-snow
2. Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak 5581 (p. Dobrovol'skogo) via the right part of the North face
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 1500 m, route length — 2200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1200 m. Average steepness of the main sections is 75° (4250–5000), including 540 m of 6 category of difficulty.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: |

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8