Russian Championship 2024 (altitude-technical class)

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V), 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort (V. Makarova, 1986) 5B Combined team of St. Petersburg:

• Nikita V. Donkov — 1st sports category
• Artur A. Matinyan — Master of Sports
• Konstantin A. Orlov — Candidate Master of Sports

Table of Contents

I. Ascent Passport — 3

I. Climbing category.

Rock climbing. 2. Climbing area, ridge. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route. Tsanner peak, 4000 m, via the N counterfort of the W ridge. 4. Proposed difficulty category. 4A category. 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 1500 m.

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team

To the summit 3652 m. Working name — peak TK MISiS (TK MISiS)

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge. (43°4′5.09″ N 43°17′16.41″ E) via the southern ridge First ascent. Presumably 2A category of difficulty. Galimzyanov T.R. — Zaryaev V.V. 2016

Ascent participants

Ascent Logbook

1. Type of ascent: ice and snow climb.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Peak Shota Rustaveli, 4960 m, via the north face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total height difference of the route 1340 m, height difference of the wall section 1180 m, average steepness of the wall section 48°, route length 2400 m, wall section length 1660 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1355 m.
6. Pitons used: Ice pitons for belay 257, ITO 6, rock pitons for belay 12.
7. Total climbing hours: 24.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, classification table section number 2.5
2. Shkhara peak (Main) (5068 m) via Tomašek's rib
3. Category 5B difficulty
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1900 m Route length: approximately 2500 m Section lengths:

• Category 5 difficulty — 125 m
• Category 6 difficulty — none

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Peak Shkhara Gl., 5068 m, via the N wall of the 3rd ridge (“the bottle”), first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6.
5. Height difference — 1500 m.
   • wall — 1450 m
   • length — 3880 m
   • including wall length — 3130 m
     • of which 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m

Ascent Report

1. Caucasus, Rocky Range, Cherek gorge.
2. Ekrzdyggen peak, 3160 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed - 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 915 m (GPS) Route length: 1300 m. Average slope of the entire route - 35°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total: 0; including bolted: 0.

• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier valley. KMGV section number: 2.5
• Peak: 4443 via the Southwest couloir and Northwest ridge.
• Category of complexity: proposed 4A category, first ascent.
• Route character: combined.
• Height difference: about 1000 m.
• Route length: about 1500 m, including:
  • length of rock sections IV — 25 m,
  • rock sections III — 45 m,
  • ice sections with a slope of at least 40° — 200 m.
• Number of pitons used:

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko-named CSKA team

To the summit of Prividenie (Ghost) 3809 m

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°2′37.71″ N, 43°16′25.86″ E) via the Northern slope First ascent, presumably category 2B Zaryaev V.V. – Galimzyanov T.R.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader – Zaryaev Vladimir Valerievich¹ 1st sports category Address: 117465, Moscow, Profsoyuznaya str., 156, bld. 1, apt. 384.

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks