48. Nakra via the Southwest Ridge (Route 2A cat. difficulty). From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) head in the direction of Donguzorunkel lakes, as described in route 44. Before reaching the second (upper) small lake, turn left off the trail, cross the Donguzorun river, and ascend via talus, then a snowy slope, to the bergschrund below the false Donguzorun pass. Having crossed the bergschrund, ascend a 120-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the Northwest Ridge of Nakra peak — the false Donguzorun pass, located on the ridge to the left of the Donguzorun pass. From the saddle, descend 80–100 m down severely fragmented easy rock (loose stones!) to the snowy slope of the Western Nakra glacier. From here, go left, bypassing talus on snow to the right, and ascend via snowy

51. Nakra via Right Counter-fors of the North Face (A. Zamora's route, cat.4B diff.). The path from "Baksan" alp-camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac on the grassy areas of the right-bank moraine of the Severniy Donguzrun glacier is described in route 50. From the moraine:

• cross the Severniy Donguzrun glacier
• go through the bergschrund to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of Nakra's North Face It is possible to bypass the bergschrund on the right via the rocks of the North counter-fors of the Northwest ridge and above it traverse through a snowy couloir (belay, falling rocks, ice falls!) to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of the North Face. Up the occasionally snowy rocks of medium difficulty of the counter-fors with several short walls and small gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right:
• ascent (pitons belay!) to a site in the middle of the counter-fors At the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.

First ascent of the unnamed peak (Rear Nakra) The ascent was made on July 6, 1975 by a group of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp:

1. ZHUKOV S.Ya. — 1st sports category (leader)
2. MAERKOVICH I.V. — 2nd sports category
3. SOLOVYOVA G.M. — Master of Sports of Russia
4. MUKHINA I.V. — 1st sports category
5. GUR'YAN Yu.A. — 1st sports category
6. ZAMYATNIN L.M. — 1st sports category The peak is located in a low spur extending from Nakra peak towards Ledesh peak and dividing the basins of the Hevai glacier and the Southern plateau of Donguz-Orun. From the base camp, located at the confluence of the Hevai and Kvish glaciers, ascend via the high right-bank moraine of the Hevai glacier to the glacier cirque (1 hr) and across the glacier plateau towards the clearly visible peak closing the cirque and composed of yellow-colored rocks.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: technical.
2. Ascent area: Greater Caucasus from Chiper-Azau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: Zadnaya Nakra (3752 m) via the northern ridge from Khevai Pass.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain 850 m; average slope 30°; complex section length: approx. 25 m.
5. Pitons driven: none.
6. Number of climbing hours: 5.
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: initial bivouacs at the confluence of Kvish and Khevai glaciers, comfortable. No bivouacs on the route.
8. Team name: group of climbers from "Baksan" alpine camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

331. Nenskra via the North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, category 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snowy plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra Peak, ascend via an avalanche couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks, interspersed with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks), to the Upper Rock Belt. From here, via steep, heavily broken rocks of above average difficulty, ascend to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, ascend to the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast summits of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7–8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend via easy rocks of the ridge's spur to the summit of

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Olimpiycev, 3805 m, via the western ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 200 m
   • average steepness — 40 m
   • length of section I — 400 m
6. Number of travel hours — 2

Peak Profsoyuzov!

PRK Profsoyuzov.

Cat. diff. 2B.

Summit elevation 2050 m.

The summit is located in the Main Caucasian Range, on the same ridge as the peaks Pkhola-Tau. Near the peak Profsoyuzov are located the following peaks:

• to the southeast — Pkhola-Tau
• to the northwest — Psentiba-shi
• a nameless peak above the Akh-Tsu pass

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.4. Central Caucasus, mountain region — Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge, SE spur of Elbrus
2. Names of peaks: Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) — Sarykol (3700) Route: traverse from south to north
3. Category of complexity: 2B
4. Character of the route — rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 1376 m
6. Length of the route: 3320 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of complexity:

Suaryk Peak

Due to the isolated location of Suaryk peak and the long approaches from the north, climbers were unaware of the existence of the north face. Tenishev, who worked with geologists near the northern slopes of Suaryk, was the first to notice this face. In 1965, a snow-avalanche expedition of VGI worked in this area, which included climbers:

• Kakiani I.G.
• Zalikhanov M.Ch.
• Lezhenin A.I.
• Shatsky S.I. They recommended this ascent as an excellent wall, which could well be claimed for the USSR Climbing Championship.

Preliminary Preparation for the Ascent

Preparation for the ascent began in April 1967, after the event was approved by the Climbing Federation of the KBA SSR DSO "Spartak". A preliminary training plan was drawn up. It included general physical training sessions - 2 times a week, which included elements such as:

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.