- Nakra via Right Counter-fors of the North Face (A. Zamora's route, cat.4B diff.).
The path from "Baksan" alp-camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac on the grassy areas of the right-bank moraine of the Severniy Donguzrun glacier is described in route 50.
From the moraine:
- cross the Severniy Donguzrun glacier
- go through the bergschrund to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of Nakra's North Face
It is possible to bypass the bergschrund on the right via the rocks of the North counter-fors of the Northwest ridge and above it traverse through a snowy couloir (belay, falling rocks, ice falls!) to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of the North Face.
Up the occasionally snowy rocks of medium difficulty of the counter-fors with several short walls and small gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right:
- ascent (pitons belay!) to a site in the middle of the counter-fors
At the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.
From the site:
- straight up the snowy rocks of medium difficulty of the counter-fors, turning into a wall in places
- then along the ice-snow slope with rocky outcrops
- higher — up and to the right along a steep ice-snow slope (avalanches!) and slabs
- ascent to the Northwest ridge of the summit to the right of the last gendarme
From here:
- to the left, overcome the gendarme head-on
- go behind it to a site
From the site:
- 40–50 m up the ridge to the rocky summit tower
- from the tower, traverse to the right (pitons belay!)
- then up simple rocks
- further along the snowy slope — ascent to Nakra's summit
From the site on the counter-fors 8–10 hours.
Descent along the Southwest or Northwest ridge is described in routes 48 and 49.
The duration of the route is 4 days.
Special equipment for 4 people:
- main rope — 2 × 40 m
- accessory cord — 2 m
- rock pitons — 8–10
- ice pitons — 3–4
- rock hammers — 2
- carabiners — 10
- crampons — 4 pairs
- tent — 1
Possible bivouac sites — on all the sites.
"Baksanskaya valley", A.F. Naumov