Suaryk Peak

Due to the isolated location of Suaryk peak and the long approaches from the north, climbers were unaware of the existence of the north face. Tenishev, who worked with geologists near the northern slopes of Suaryk, was the first to notice this face.

In 1965, a snow-avalanche expedition of VGI worked in this area, which included climbers:

• Kakiani I.G.
• Zalikhanov M.Ch.
• Lezhenin A.I.
• Shatsky S.I.

They recommended this ascent as an excellent wall, which could well be claimed for the USSR Climbing Championship.

Preliminary Preparation for the Ascent

Preparation for the ascent began in April 1967, after the event was approved by the Climbing Federation of the KBA SSR DSO "Spartak". A preliminary training plan was drawn up. It included general physical training sessions - 2 times a week, which included elements such as:

• cross-country running,
• gymnastics,
• games (football, basketball).

In April, a training ascent was made to the peak SAVARYK-4A cat. diff. Most participants spent the summer in climbing camps, where each person followed individual plans. In addition, almost all members of the national team made ascents with their teams. Thus, NAUGOLNY V., TERLETSKY V., and SUSHKO A. climbed the peak UKO via the 4B cat. diff. route.

Great attention was paid to selecting equipment. Considering the unstable weather in September, the group was supplied with warm clothing. Each person had:

• a down jacket,
• a down sleeping bag,
• two woolen sweaters.

For cooking, they took "Febus" and two domestic-made primuses. Considering the nature of the peak, the equipment included a set of special climbing gear:

• rock and ice pitons,
• a set of petal pitons,
• drill pitons,
• jumar,
• ladders.

During the ascent, it was planned to have hot meals twice a day. In addition to the usual food necessary for cooking, the team was provided with a set of products that were light, high-calorie, and had good taste. The daily ration per person weighed 900 g and consisted of 3400 calories. Both the main group and observers had first-aid kits with all necessary medications.

Before heading to the mountains, a thorough medical examination was conducted at the Sports Medicine Dispensary. The final team composition was approved:

1. NAUGOLNY V.K. — team captain, leader
2. KAKHIANI I.T. — deputy leader
3. LEZHENIN A.I. — participant
4. SHATSKY S.I. — participant
5. TERLETSKY V.A. — participant
6. SALEEV A.A. — participant
7. BUZHINSKY V.K. — participant
8. TEBERDAEV A.M. — participant
9. BABAEV SH.A. — participant
10. SHORTANOV A.A. — participant

Observation Group

1. TENISHEV SH.S. — head of observation
2. KHARCHENKO A.S.
3. SUSHKO A.A.
4. RYLOV D.M.
5. STROKUN V.F.
6. TILOV Kh.M.

On September 9, the group of 16 people left Tyrnyauz and after 4 hours, the road cleared by a bulldozer on the mountain ridge slopes came to an end. After another two hours of walking, they reached the base of the eastern face of Suaryk peak, near a small cozy lake. They set up camp.

The next day, the entire team left at 6:00 AM to recon the route under the peak, taking a binocular and some equipment with them. After a lengthy examination of the walls, two possible paths were considered:

1. Via the North-East counterfort (difficult rocks), exiting onto the north face and then moving up and to the right, as if traversing the wall to the summit.
2. From the Jeurgen pass, straight up the wall, and only at the end does the route veer to the right.

The first option was dismissed. They clarified the communication conditions with the auxiliary group. In addition to direct observation with binoculars, communication was maintained using flares. On the same day, they decided to process the lower part of the wall. It took 6 hours to cover 120 m.

As a result of this processing, they had a complete understanding of the structure and nature of the rocks. It was decided that everyone would wear rubber boots, as rocks with ice and ice couloirs were frequently encountered.

Tactical Plan

Before starting the route, the team had all necessary information about the ascent objective. The most logical and safe route and bivouac locations were finally determined. Considering that in case of a prolonged assault and bad weather, progress might become impossible, and the lack of a good bivouac site would not allow waiting while preserving strength, the tactical plan was based on the speed of route completion. When drawing up the plan, it was taken into account that the team mainly consisted of climbers who had repeatedly participated in the USSR Climbing Championship and had extensive experience in wall ascents. The speed of route completion was to be ensured by:

1. Excellent general physical preparation
2. Good rock climbing skills
3. Maximum compaction of the working day
4. It was planned to organize the first bivouac as well as possible to preserve strength for the main part of the wall.
5. Further route processing was to be done after the group stopped for a bivouac.

Route Description

Day 1, September 10, 1967

Two rope teams — Naugolny, Shatsky, Saleev, Terletsky — left at 6:00 AM from the camp under the wall by the lake to Jeurgen pass, carrying backpacks with food, ropes, pitons, binoculars, hammers, etc.

The sun had already lit the eastern wall, while the gloomy, almost sheer wall faced them. The journey from the base camp to Jeurgen pass took 1 hour.

After lengthy discussions and inspections, they chose the northernmost part of the wall — the most logical path. Naugolny and Shatsky went to process the route.

From the start, the rocks were complex, monolithic, with few cracks. Initially, they moved along a slight fissure going up and to the left, under a vertical chimney with a negative exit. Upon exiting, they had to use drill pitons and ladders.

After overcoming the chimney, the path continued:

• along smoothed rocks,
• through a crack going slightly right and up.

The section was difficult, with almost no cracks for pitons. Further, the rocks became gentler, of medium difficulty: stepped slabs, as if superimposed on each other. The path led to a destroyed ridge, which was traversed on the right side (in the direction of travel). There were many "live rocks".

Then they descended into an ice couloir along a small ledge breaking off on the turn of the couloir to the left. The section was of medium difficulty. The turn was hard to pass. A hand pendulum was used at this spot.

Then they reached slabs with small ledges — like large, smooth tiles. The section was complex. There were no platforms for belaying. Cracks were very rare.

They approached a good platform — a good spot for a bivouac. The day was ending, and it was time to return to camp. They returned to the base camp in the evening.

Day 2, September 11, 1967

Early in the morning, the entire team headed from the base camp to Jeurgen pass. With backpacks, they reached the pass in just over an hour. They began the ascent via the previously processed route in rope teams: Naugolny — Shatsky — Terletsky — Babaev — Saleev — Teberdaev — Kakiani — Shortanov — Buzhinsky — Lezhenin.

While the other rope teams approached a small platform where everyone could gather, the Naugolny — Shatsky team began further route processing. From the ledge, the route went along tile-like slabs. There were almost no cracks, and no ledges for belaying either. They had to proceed very cautiously.

Then the steepness of the slabs decreased to 55°. Two and a half ropes along the slabs became very smooth, without cracks. They moved very slowly and cautiously. Three drill pitons and 8 rock pitons were hammered in. This section took a lot of time.

The slabs led to an ice couloir. They traversed 10 m with step-cutting. The section was difficult, with insignificant holds. Belaying was done through rock and drill pitons.

It should be noted that the couloir formed an internal angle, the walls of which were smoothed. Further, the ice couloir led to a small ledge. This section, with a steepness of 55°, two ropes, was difficult; rock pitons were hammered in on the left side of the internal angle. The ice was thin. Pitons were hammered in every 7–8 m. On this section, 9 rock pitons were hammered in.

After the ledge, the rocks were destroyed, and they moved simultaneously, with a steepness of 45°. There were many "live rocks" on the rocks. Great caution was required.

Further, they encountered sheer walls that blocked their path, and the only possibility was a 7 m high chimney. The chimney had smooth walls, a steepness of 90°, and was climbed using tension with great physical effort; belaying was reliable through pitons. Pulling up backpacks took a lot of time.

After the chimney, the path went along complex slab-like rocks with a steepness of up to 65°. Pitons were frequently hammered in throughout this section. 10 rock pitons and one ice piton were hammered in. The section was not easy.

Ahead was a wall, and then another chimney, going up and to the right for 40 m. Steepness was 80–85°. The climbing was difficult and tense. At the top, the chimney narrowed. The section was complex, especially the exit from the chimney. 5 rock pitons, one ice piton, and one drill piton were hammered in.

Further, the path led into an ice couloir, which was traversed on the left side with step-cutting. The couloir led to a dead end: on the left was a wall and a dangerous groove going up and to the right with ice, and rockfall was inevitable. On the right were "ram's foreheads", very smoothed. They decided to go along them. Steepness was 70°, climbing was very difficult, especially the first 10 m. A drill piton was hammered in here, with steepness reaching 90°. They moved without backpacks. Backpacks were pulled up along the groove. On this section, 7 rock pitons and one drill piton were hammered in.

They reached the "Tank" sentinel. At "Tank", there was a platform, a good spot for a bivouac: a 1.5 m wide and 5 m long ledge. They decided to stop here, as no suitable platform was visible further. To make the most of the daylight, the Kakiani — Naugolny pair went out to further process the route. In two hours, they managed to process three ropes. During this time, the other participants cleared the platform for the night and prepared dinner.

Day 3, September 12, 1967

After a good rest, they left at 7:00 AM, bypassing the "Tank" sentinel on the right. They traversed the previously processed section very cautiously, as there were many "live rocks". Then the entire group proceeded to the summit simultaneously. The entire section was covered in 1.5 hours.

Conclusions

The route is mainly rock. The terrain is very diverse: small overhangs, smoothed slabs, ledges, chimneys, internal and external corners.

There are few good cracks for hammering in pitons. Therefore, a group following this route needs to have a diverse set of pitons, including drill pitons, to ensure safe passage.

Particular attention should be paid to the presence of "live rocks" in chimneys.

There is no water on the route; ice is encountered.

In terms of difficulty, this route can be compared to routes such as:

• Peak Shurovsky via "Surrogate" — 5B cat. diff.
• Kyukyurlyu — 5B cat. diff.

Suaryk via the north face fully deserves the highest category of difficulty — 5B.