Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: technical.
2. Ascent area: Greater Caucasus from Chiper-Azau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: Zadnaya Nakra (3752 m) via the northern ridge from Khevai Pass.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain 850 m; average slope 30°; complex section length: approx. 25 m.
5. Pitons driven: none.
6. Number of climbing hours: 5.
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: initial bivouacs at the confluence of Kvish and Khevai glaciers, comfortable. No bivouacs on the route.
8. Team name: group of climbers from "Baksan" alpine camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

BASKOVA Galina Ivanovna, 3rd sports category, leader; BERMAN Valery Nikolaevich, 3rd sports category; MOZHAEV Mikhail Vladimirovich, 3rd sports category; ZANDER Sergey Eduardovich, 3rd sports category.

10. Team coach: GURYAN Yuri Abramovich, 1st sports category.
11. Dates of departure and return: July 15, 1977.

1st S. Zhukov +5 (xenaga) - 6/11–757–

ZADNAYA NAKRA, VIEW FROM THE EAST FROM KHEVAI PLATEAU

Panoramic sketch of Zadnaya Nakra and adjacent peaks from Khevai Glacier (from the south).

To the south-southwest from Nakra-Tau peak, a spur extends towards Ledesht peak, dividing the ice basins of the South-Donguzorun plateau and Khevai Glacier. Under the southwestern edge of Nakra, the spur is overlapped by a transfluent glacier. Further south, there is another, much narrower overlap of the spur, through which the path of climbers usually goes, heading to the Nakra area via False Donguz-Orun and "Nakra gully". This ice-covered lowering of the ridge is known as Khevai Pass. Further south, the ridge rises sharply, forming Zadnaya Nakra peak. To the south of it, the ridge to Ledesht is even and not high. On alpinist maps of the Central Caucasus, the peak is shown as unnamed with an elevation of 3752 m.

The first ascent to the peak was made on July 6, 1975, by a group of instructors from "Shkhelda" alpine camp via the northern ridge from Khevai Pass. The group consisted of: ZHUKOV S.Ya. — 1st sports category, leader; SOLOVYOVA G.M. — Candidate Master of Sports; MUKHINA I.V. — 1st sports category; GURYAN Yu.A. — 1st sports category; MAERKOVICH I.V. — 2nd sports category; ZAMYATNIN L.M. — 1st sports category. The first ascenders rated the route as 2A category of difficulty and considered it suitable for first independent ascents by climbers going for training and sports work in the Dolra valley. The description of the route was submitted to the Climbing and Sports Commission (KSP) of the Baksan region, but since not all necessary documentation requirements were met, the route was not classified that season. In July 1977, the ascent was repeated by two groups of climbers from "Baksan" alpine camp. Participants and coaches of both groups agreed with the opinion of the first ascenders regarding the route's correspondence to 2A category of difficulty. This report describes the ascent made by the first of these groups on July 15, 1977.

The group departed from the base camp, located at the confluence of Khevai and Kvish glaciers, at 3:00.

Route

• Initially, up the high ancient right-bank moraine of Khevai Glacier, leading to the upper plateau of the glacier.
• Across the glacier plateau, upwards towards the clearly visible peak closing the cirque, composed of yellow-colored rocks.
• To the left, the massif of Ledesht peak is visible, to the right — the massif of Khevai peak.
• Up the snowy and talus slope, bypassing the peak to the right, ascent to a rectangular shoulder on the ridge, rising above Khevai Pass. From the base camp — 2.5 hours.
• From the shoulder (for a rope team) leftwards along the ridge of the peak.
• The ridge is composed of large blocks, forming several low "gendarmeres".
• On the ridge, climbing is straightforward, with simultaneous protection; bypassing "gendarmeres" to the left, with alternate protection through outcrops.
• From the shoulder to the subpeak and then along a short flat section of the ridge to the summit — about 1 hour.

Descent

• Initially, along the ridge in the direction of Ledesht peak.
• Two "gendarmeres" on the descent are bypassed to the left.
• When bypassing a "gendarme" consisting of several thin rock spires, a 10 m rappel.
• After the rappel — descent to the left onto Khevai Glacier along a gentle snowy and talus slope of the ridge.
• Across the glacier — exit onto the ascent path and return to the base camp.

The group returned to the base camp at 8:15, spending slightly more than 5 hours on the ascent.

Recommendations for climbers: initial bivouac — at the confluence of Kvish and Khevai glaciers or on the South-Donguzorun plateau; departure time — no later than 6:00; equipment for a group of 4:

• main rope 2 × 30 m
• auxiliary cord 5 m