First ascent of the unnamed peak (Rear Nakra)
The ascent was made on July 6, 1975 by a group of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp:
- ZHUKOV S.Ya. — 1st sports category (leader)
- MAERKOVICH I.V. — 2nd sports category
- SOLOVYOVA G.M. — Master of Sports of Russia
- MUKHINA I.V. — 1st sports category
- GUR'YAN Yu.A. — 1st sports category
- ZAMYATNIN L.M. — 1st sports category
The peak is located in a low spur extending from Nakra peak towards Ledesh peak and dividing the basins of the Hevai glacier and the Southern plateau of Donguz-Orun.
From the base camp, located at the confluence of the Hevai and Kvish glaciers, ascend via the high right-bank moraine of the Hevai glacier to the glacier cirque (1 hr) and across the glacier plateau towards the clearly visible peak closing the cirque and composed of yellow-colored rocks.
To the left is the massif of Ledesh peak, to the right — Hevai peaks.
Ascent:
- Ascend the snow-scree slope, bypassing the peak to the right, to a rectangular shoulder on the ridge. From the base camp — 2.5 hrs.
- From the shoulder (in rope teams) move left along the ridge of the peak.
- The ridge is composed of large blocks forming several low gendarmes.
- Climbing on the ridge is straightforward, with simultaneous belay.
- Bypass gendarmes on the left, with alternate belay using projections.
- From the shoulder to the subpeak and then along a short section of the ridge to the summit — 2 hrs.
Descent:
- Initially descend along the ridge in the direction of Ledesh peak.
- Two gendarmes on the descent are bypassed on the left.
- When bypassing a gendarme comprising several thin rock spires, a sport descent is required.
- After the sport descent, descend into the Hevai glacier cirque via a gentle snow-scree slope and return to the base camp.
- From the summit to the base camp — 2.5 hrs.
The entire ascent took the group 7 hrs.
It is also possible to ascend the peak from the Southern plateau of Donguz-Orun.
The group evaluates the route as Category 2A.
Recommendations for climbers:
- Any number of participants
- Initial bivouac — at the confluence of the Kvish and Hevai glaciers or on the Southern plateau of Donguz-Orun
- Departure time — between 4:00 and 6:00
- Equipment for a group of 4: main rope 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord — 5 m
