- Nakra via the Southwest Ridge (Route 2A cat. difficulty). From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) head in the direction of Donguzorunkel lakes, as described in route 44. Before reaching the second (upper) small lake, turn left off the trail, cross the Donguzorun river, and ascend via talus, then a snowy slope, to the bergschrund below the false Donguzorun pass. Having crossed the bergschrund, ascend a 120-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the Northwest Ridge of Nakra peak — the false Donguzorun pass, located on the ridge to the left of the Donguzorun pass. From the saddle, descend 80–100 m down severely fragmented easy rock (loose stones!) to the snowy slope of the Western Nakra glacier. From here, go left, bypassing talus on snow to the right, and ascend via snowy fields and slopes to below the saddle of the Western counterfort of Nakra peak. Ascend a steep 30–40-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the Western counterfort of Nakra peak, which extends as a ridge to the southwest from the Northwest Ridge of Nakra peak. Descend from the counterfort via fragmented rock to the upper snow plateau of the Nakra glacier, and from there, reach the couloir below the lowering of the Western ridge of Nakra peak, to the right (below) the ice falls of the ridge. It is better to bypass the bergschrund on the left and ascend a steep snowy couloir (ice falls on the left, rocky tower on the right, protection!) to reach the upper plateau of Kvish glacier. From the plateau, reach the rocky areas at the base of the Southwest Ridge of Nakra peak. The initial bivouac is on these areas. From the “Baksan” alpine camp: 8–10 hours.
From the area (without backpacks), bypass the southwest rocky ridge of Nakra peak to the right and, having crossed the bergschrund, reach its icy-snowy slope. Ascend the southern icy-snowy slopes (crevasses!) straight up, to the right of the southwest ridge. Cross a small icefall and, above it, reach a snowy plateau. From the plateau, ascend upwards parallel to the ridge and, above the rocky ascent — the ridge — turn left and reach the rocks of the southwest ridge. Further, ascend easy, severely fragmented, and snow-covered rocks of the ridge — a 300-meter ascent to an area. From the area, ascend 300 m upwards via easy fragmented rocks of the ridge, then via a snowy slope to the summit of Nakra.
From the initial bivouac: 3–3.5 hours. Descent via the ascent route: 1.5–2 hours. Duration of the route: 2 days.
Additional equipment:
- 2–3 ice axes
- crampons for all
“Baksan Valley”, A. F. Naumov