Report

Championship of the Caucasian Territorial National Management of Alpine Camps on the ascent to the summit Glavnaya Shkhara (5200 m) via the North wall (first ascent) by the team of alpine camp “Bezengi” team captain Kraynov I.P. team coach Kudinov I.B. August 1–5, 1983 Alpine camp “Bezengi”:

MOUNTAINEERING

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Main Shkhara, center of the NE wall.
4. Proposed - 5B cat. sl. first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1145 m, length: 1640 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. sl.: 790 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 57°, including 6 cat. sl.: 62° (4360 m–4550 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 36/2, chocks 49/3, ice screws: 60/6
7. Team's travel hours - 26 and days - 3.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Peak Shkhara Gl., 5068 m, via the N wall of the 3rd ridge (“the bottle”), first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6.
5. Height difference — 1500 m.
   • wall — 1450 m
   • length — 3880 m
   • including wall length — 3130 m
     • of which 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m

All-Union Council

Alplager "Bezengi"

The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO

Caucasus

Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face

1. BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader
2. LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant
3. KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak"
4. MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit" 1980

Ascent Report

1. Caucasus, Rocky Range, Cherek gorge.
2. Ekrzdyggen peak, 3160 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed - 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 915 m (GPS) Route length: 1300 m. Average slope of the entire route - 35°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total: 0; including bolted: 0.

• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier valley. KMGV section number: 2.5
• Peak: 4443 via the Southwest couloir and Northwest ridge.
• Category of complexity: proposed 4A category, first ascent.
• Route character: combined.
• Height difference: about 1000 m.
• Route length: about 1500 m, including:
  • length of rock sections IV — 25 m,
  • rock sections III — 45 m,
  • ice sections with a slope of at least 40° — 200 m.
• Number of pitons used:

Climbing Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezengi region, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To the peak named after Yu.S. Saratov, 3711 m high, via the N ridge 43.05.337 N 43.10.797 E.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rock.
5. Height difference is 500 m.
6. There is 1 rappel anchor on the route.
7. Climbing time — 5 hours.
8. Leader — S.A. Slotyuk, Candidate Master of Sports, in a team of two with S.V. Kotachkov, Candidate Master of Sports.
9. Coach — S.A. Slotyuk.

Report on the first ascent of Ural Vostochny Peak (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the combined team of CSKA named after Demchenko and KAiS MPEI, from August 19 to August 20, 2020. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A.

Ural Vostochny (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall

Climbing details

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m), via the Southwest wall, first ascent, approximately 5A category of difficulty, by the team Сборная ФАСПб from July 9 to July 9, 2022. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team members:

• Bolyachkin D.L. — 1st sports category
• Matinyan A.A. — Master of Sports
• Trikozov V.M. — Master of Sports

1. Ascent Passport

Report on the Ascent of the National Team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the Summit of Belalakaya 3861 m

via the South-Eastern Lap. Presumably 5A category of difficulty. First Ascent. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Report compiled in November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A.