2. Ascent to the summit Glavny Ptysh (3520 m) along the eastern edge — cat. diff. 3B (Fig. 39)
Bivouac on the Ptyshsky pass. From the pass, 30 m to the right along the shelves to a 3-meter wall and along it to the left and upwards to the jagged ridge composed of inclined slabs (piton protection!). Further directly along the ridge to the steepest part of the ascent (bypassing to the south is not recommended).
At the steep part of the ascent:
- exit to the left to the internal corner,
- along it upwards 15–18 m (thorough piton protection!)
- exit to the shoulder.
From the shoulder:
- upwards on the right side of the wide couloir (rockfall!)
- to the summit.
From the pass 6–7 hours.
Descent along the ascent route (thorough protection!) takes 6–7 hours.
From the pass to Dombayskaya polyana — 3.5–4 hours.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants in the group — no more than 6 people.
- Initial bivouac — Ptyshsky pass.
- Departure time from the bivouac — no later than 5:00 am.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2 × 30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 3 m; c) rock pitons — 8–10; d) rock hammers — 2; e) carabiners — 8.
- Possible bivouac locations: 1st — on the shoulder; 2nd — on the summit.
Fig. 39