1. Ascent to Semenov-bashi peak (3608 m) from the southwest — 1b category of difficulty (Fig. 10)

From the “Alibek” alpine camp along the trail through the stream under the waterfall to the bivouac site. From Dombay plain 2.5–3 hours.

From the bivouac:

  • along the stream up the trail to a steep grassy slope;
  • after passing the slope, exit to the left ridge of the upper moraine;
  • further along the talus — to a wide couloir divided by a ridge into two parts.

Up the ridge and through heavily destroyed rocks — exit under the ridge of the forepeak (in the couloir, it is possible to ascend to the left of the ridge, but the path is more rockfall-prone!). 50–60 m below the ridge — traverse to the right and through a gentle wall (15 m) along the shelves — exit to the forepeak. From the forepeak — descent into the gap (insurance, piton!) and along the destroyed rocks of the ridge (50–60 m) — exit to the summit.

From the bivouac to the summit: 5–6 hours. The entire path is rockfall-prone! Descent along the ascent route to Dombay — 6–7 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

  1. The number of participants in the group — no more than 10–15 people.
  2. Initial bivouac — lower bivouac.
  3. Time of departure from the bivouac — 3–4 am.
  4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 2–3; d) rock hammer — 1; e) carabiners — 7–8.
  5. At the beginning of summer, ascents should be made in the first half of the day — the path is avalanche-prone, departure from the bivouac — no later than 2 am.img-0.jpeg

Fig. 10

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment