Fig. 38

1. Ascent to the summit of Yuzhny Ptysh (3500 m) 2–6 cat. diff. (Fig. 38)

From Dombayskaya polyana through Dombayskoye gorge (trail) to the right of Chuchkhurskiye waterfalls to Ptyshskaya bivouac. Further:

• across scree
• then left of moraine (trail)
• left — upwards to the upper cirque of Kruzevnoye glacier
• across the glacier to the right — upwards to Ptyshsky pass (belay on the glacier!)

From Dombayskaya polyana 7–8 hours. Bivouac site.

From Ptyshsky pass across ledges to the right — downwards (belay!) onto a snowfield and from it to the buttress of the eastern ridge of Glavny Ptysh (Fig. 38, lower). Further to the right across a ledge (belay!) and through a bergschrund onto the glacier in the direction of Atsgarsky pass. From the glacier across an inclined slab ascent to the left — upwards under a snowfield, then to the left — upwards across a loose inclined couloir (rockfall hazard!) and to the right of the "finger" exit across ledges into the "window". From the "window":

• descent across a loose couloir 25–30 m onto the glacier,
• then across a steep snowy slope (in the first half of summer avalanche hazard!) to the left — upwards (belay!) to the lower gap in the western buttress of Yuzhny Ptysh (Fig. 38, upper).

Transition through the gap and to the right of the buttress upwards — in the direction of the northern ridge of Yuzhny Ptysh. Across rocky ledges, loose couloirs and through a crumbling wall — exit onto the ridge (the entire path is rockfall hazardous, belay!). Along the ridge (belay through protrusions!) — to the summit. From Ptyshsky pass 7–8 hours.

Descent along the ascent route to Ptyshsky pass takes 5–6 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac — in the area of the buttress of the eastern ridge of Glavny Ptysh.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 4:00 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×30 m; b) expendable rope — 3 m; c) rock pitons — 6–8; d) ice pitons — 2–3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammer — 1; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons — 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac sites: 1st — on the southern side under Ptyshsky pass; 2nd — not reaching Atsgarskaya ridge; 3rd — on the ridge leading to the summit; 4th — on the summit.