Brief Description of the Approach
From the "Alibek" mountaineering camp in the direction of the "73" pass, follow the trail through the stream under the waterfall and then along the stream from the slopes of v. Semenov-Bashi up the trail to a steep grassy slope. Having passed it, exit to the left ridge of the upper moraine. Follow the trail on the moraine for about 500 m and then traverse left along a steep grassy-scree slope to the ridge of large and medium scree in a small hanging valley, going from the saddle between v. Semenov-Bashi and v. Maly Semenov-Bashi. Possible bivouac site, water available.
Brief Description of the Route
From the bivouac, follow the medium and large scree (at the beginning and middle of the season, along a snowy slope) 500 m in the direction of the saddle between v. Semenov-Bashi and v. Maly Semenov-Bashi and, 150 m before it, turn right onto a ledge. Along the 0.5–2 m wide ledge (1–2) 400 m to a snow-scree couloir, leading left of the "Lopata" gendarme. Up the couloir 100 m and, bypassing the gendarme on the left, 50 m along the ridge to a 35-meter wall with a vaguely defined internal angle, steepness 50–60°. Up the wall straight with piton belay (possible rockfall) to a sharp ridge. Then traverse 5 m to the right into an internal angle of slab-like structure, steepness 40°, and up it 35 m (pitons), exit to the ridge. Further along a gentle ridge 60 m — exit under the black wall. From here, traverse along a ledge to the right 40 m to a wide scree southern slope of the summit and along it 300 m to the right-up to a notch. Then 100–120 m along the ridge (route 1B cat. dif.) to the summit.
Descent via route 1B cat. dif. Control tour is installed on the ledge when bypassing the "Lopata" gendarme. Here is also a convenient place for a forced bivouac.
Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route
| Date | Designation | Average Steepness | Length, m | Nature of Relief | Difficulty | Condition | Conditions, Weather | Pitons (Rock) | Pitons (Ice) | Pitons (Bolt) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 20.09 | R0–R1 | 20° | 500 m | scree, snow | 1 | excellent | simultaneously | – | – | – |
| R1–R2 | 10° | 400 m | ledge | 1–2 | snow-scree | simultaneously, belay via ledges | – | – | – | |
| R2–R3 | 25° | 100 m | snow-scree couloir | 1 | – | simultaneously | – | – | – | |
| R3–R4 | 20° | 150 m | ridge | 1 | destroyed | simultaneously, ledges | – | – | – | |
| R4–R5 | 50° | 15 m | wall | 3 | rockfall hazard | same | 1 | – | – | |
| R5–R6 | 80° | 5 m | internal angle | 4 | same | same | 1 | – | – | |
| R6–R7 | 50° | 15 m | internal angle | 3 | same | same | 1 | – | – | |
| R7–R8 | 40° | 40 m | internal angle | 3 | monolith | – | 2 | – | – | |
| R8–R9 | 30° | 60 m | ridge | 1 | destroyed | simultaneously, ledges | – | – | – | |
| R9–R10 | 10° | 40 m | scree ledge | 2 | live small scree | simultaneously | – | – | – | |
| R10–R11 | 30° | 300 m | ledges, scree | 1 | rockfall hazard | same | – | – | – | |
| R11–R12 | 10° | 120 m | ridge | 1–2 | monolith | simultaneously, ledges | – | – | – |
Scheme of the Ascent Route
