SSummitMate
@SummitMate
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
SSummitMateReport by the team from Sverdlovsk region on a new route through the Southeast wall of Puisenot peak in Patagonia, one of the most difficult routes in the region.
Report of the Sverdlovsk Region team on the ascent of Poisenot Peak
Climbing passport
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Route description
From the base camp in El Chaltén (400 m) follow a well-marked trail to Poisenot camp (700 m) — 2–2.5 hours. Then turn left and move along the trail towards Lago Suchiá — 1–1.5 hours. Bypassing the lake on the left, ascend the moraine to a rock cave (1400 m) — 1.5 hours. From the rock cave, move upwards for 1 hour to a visible saddle (1700 m). Here, it's necessary to rope up. Further:
- Cross a heavily crevassed glacier, sticking to the left side, and approach the southeastern wall of Poisenot Peak.
- A snowdrift under Poisenot Peak is a convenient place for ABC in a snow cave (1 hour from the saddle via a pre-laid path).
- The start of the route is under a well-visible system of cracks in the central part of the wall (start at 1900 m) — 1.5 hours from the cave. Section R0–R4:
- Length: 200 m.
Route Description: С гребню и В стене
SSummitMateRoute passport to the summit of *Sainte-Exupery* (2680 m) in the *Fitz Roy* massif, Patagonia, climbed via the north ridge and east face in 1996.
Passport
- Rock climbing category.
- The Andes, Fitz Roy Massif (Argentina, Patagonia).
- Summit Saint-Exupéry 2680 m via the North Ridge and East Face.
- Proposed category of complexity 5B, first ascent.
- Height difference – 500 m; route length – 860 m; including 340 m traverse on the 3rd wall from the ridge at 70° steepness; sections of 5th-6th category complexity – 760 m; out of which 6th category complexity – 240 m. Average steepness of the route (excluding traverse) – 73°.
- Pitons driven: rock — 49/11 bolt — 2/2 protection cams — 112/17
Route Description: маршрут «Компрессор»
SSummitMate### "Compressor Route" on Cerro Torre: Technical Details, Tactical Decisions, and Patagonian Weather Challenges The ascent of Cerro Torre via the "Compressor Route" is a storied adventure marred by controversy and applauded for its technical difficulty. Climbers tackling this route must be prepared for the extreme weather conditions characteristic of Patagonia, alongside the route's notorious technical challenges. #### Technical Details The route involves a mix of ice climbing, rock climbing, and aid climbing, with sections that are highly exposed. Climbers must be adept in a variety of techniques and be prepared for variable conditions that can shift from ice to rock or a combination of both. #### Tactical Decisions Tactical decisions on the "Compressor Route" are heavily influenced by the unpredictable Patagonian weather. Climbers need to be prepared to adapt their plans according to changing conditions, sometimes opting for a more conservative approach to ensure safety. #### Patagonian Weather The weather in Patagonia is known for its unpredictability and severity. Climbers on Cerro Torre must be prepared for high winds, low temperatures, and potential snow or ice storms. Understanding and respecting these conditions is crucial for a successful ascent. #### Conclusion The "Compressor Route" on Cerro Torre is a formidable challenge that requires not only technical skill but also the ability to navigate the complex and dangerous weather patterns of Patagonia. Climbers must be well-prepared and flexible to successfully summit this iconic peak.
Passport
- Technical class
- South America, Patagonia
- Cerro Torre summit via the southeast ridge by the "Compressor" route.
- Approximate complexity category 6B
- Route wall section length — 1453 m.
- Section length from the glacier to the Col of Patience saddle — 630 m. Route length from the glacier to the summit — 2233 m.
- Length of sections with 6th complexity category — 568 m.
- Length of sections with drilled holes (not included in point 7) — 465 m.
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of "Golazo" route, category 6B, on the east face of Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Patagonia.
Report
Central Tower of Torres del Paine, "Golazo" Route, 6B, 2007
Passport
- Technical category
- South America, Chile, Patagonia
- Summit: Torres del Paine, Central Tower
- Route: via center of the eastern wall ("Golazo"), Second ascent
- Cat. complexity 6B
- Elevations:
Route Description: ЮВ грани
SSummitMateClimbing team ascent to the summit of Fitz Roy in Patagonia via the South-East face (Franco-Argentine route, category 6B).
Passport
- Class of winter ascents
- South America, Andes, Patagonia, Fitz Roy massif
- Peak — Fitz Roy via the southeast face
- Route 6B cat. dif. (Franco-Argentine)
- Route length — 1481 m
- Length of the wall section of the route — 560 m
- Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 576 m incl. 6 cat. dif. — 381 m
- Height difference — 1220 m
Route Description: с востока С гребню
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Pik AKF North (3446 m) via North Ridge, cat. diff. 1B, Afghanistan, Lalmi Shan mountains.
Alpinism School
Rock climbing class
REPORT
First ascent of peak 3446 m: North Peak AKF, from the east via the north ridge. Afghanistan, Lal mishan mountains, Munti dzh mountain range. Category I instructor-methodologist Bogolyubov V.V.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class Rocky.
- Ascent region — Afghanistan, Lal mishan mountains, Munti dzh mountain range.
- Peak, route — First ascent of peak 3446 m; North Peak AKF, from the east via the north ridge.
Route Description: с востока С гребню
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Pik AKF South (3440 m) via the North Ridge; a classified rock route, category 2B, Afghanistan, Muntiij massif.
Alpinism School
Rock climbing category
REPORT
First ascent to the summit 3440 m, Peak AKF South, from the east via the northern ridge. Afghanistan, Lalmi Shan Mountains, Muntij mountain range. Instructor-methodologist category I Bogolyubov V.V. 2009.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category: Rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Afghanistan, Lalmi Shan Mountains, Muntij mountain range.
- Summit, route: First ascent to the summit 3440 m; Peak AKF South, from the east via the northern ridge.
Route Description: СЗ гребню
SSummitMateReport on the ascent to the summit of Noshaq (7,492 m) via the Northwest ridge in 2011, category of complexity 5B.
Championship
Class of High-Altitude Ascensions
Report
On the ascent to the summit of Noshak 7492 m via the Northwest Ridge. 2011 Leader: Chizhik D.V. Participants:
- Apraksin Denis
- Shafikov Renat
- Bakhmurov Yuri
- Leontiev Valery
- Gromov Andrey
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent via "Centre of the south-east wall" route, category 6A, to Jabal Misht summit in the Sultanate of Oman.
Ascent Passport
- Region: Sultanate of Oman, Western Hajar range. Peak name: Jabal Misht
- Route name: Up the center of the southeast wall
- Proposed 6A category of difficulty, third ascent, combination of German routes
- Route type: rock
- Route elevation gain: 900 m. Route length: 1000 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty – 250 m., VI category of difficulty – 450 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route – 83°, total route – 73°
- "Hooks" left on the route: total – 0, including bolted – 0.
Route Description: З стене
SSummitMateDescription of the new "One way ticket" route up the western wall of Nallumasortoq peak (2051 m) in Greenland, category 6B, climbed by the Russian Extreme Project team.
Passport
- Technical class
- Greenland Island, Tasermiut Fjord
- Naluumasortoq Peak (2051 m), via the western wall to the central tower
- Route name "One way ticket"
- Complexity category approximately 6B (A4, 6B)
- Route length 975 m Wall section length 780 m
- Length of sections with 6th category complexity 780 m
- Heights: route start 500 m above sea level, central tower summit - 1400 m above sea level. Height difference 900 m