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ASCENT CERTIFICATE

  1. Type of ascent: rock climbing.
  2. Region of ascent: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvam mountain region to Marukh pass.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "175 years of Kislovodsk", via the southern ridge, 3100 m.
  4. Expected difficulty category: 1B.
  5. Route characteristics:

elevation gain — 300 m, average slope — 40°–45°, route length:

D.C.123456
M64013
  1. Number of pitons driven: none.
  2. Number of climbing hours: 12 hours.
  3. Number of nights and their characteristics: none.
  4. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

FEDOROV BORIS VASILYEVICH — 2nd sports category ANKOV ALEKSANDR YURYEVICH — 2nd sports category KUDERKIN NIKOLAY SEMENOVICH — 2nd sports category ASRIYANTS SERGEY SERGEEVICH — 2nd sports category

  1. Team coach: GORDA R.A.
  2. Date of departure and return: September 13, 1978.

DESCRIPTION

First ascent of an unnamed peak with the aim of naming it "175 years of Kislovodsk" peak, via the southern ridge, approximately 1B difficulty category.

From the base camp, follow the Kislovodchan trail to the waterfall. From the waterfall, the trail goes right, uphill along the dry stream bed, then across the middle talus, along grassy ledges on the "ram's foreheads" and along the grassy moraine in the direction of a standalone rock in front of the glacier (alt. 2660). It takes 1 hour from the waterfall. The average slope is 30–35°. The standalone rock is bypassed via the rocks on the right (40 minutes). Behind the rock, there is an exit to the glacier. On the glacier, in cats (slope 30–35°), straight up for about 100 m, then right towards the snow dome. The height of the upper glacier plateau is 2820 m. Navigate through the crevasses to the foot of the snow dome — 400 m.

Then, ascend the snow slope with a slope of 35–40° to the snow dome. From the snow dome, go right and down to a large talus, which is bypassed on the left, upwards towards the ruined ridge. At the end of the ridge, there is a platform. It takes 40 minutes from the standalone rock. Height 2900 m.

From the platform, ascend straight up a 3-meter wall to a wide, inclined ledge. Along the ledge, 40 m upwards, there is an exit to a narrow connection between the gendarmes. From the connection, go left along the ridge to the second gap via ruined rocks with simultaneous belay (40 minutes from the platform). From the gap, follow the narrow and sharp ridge (the peak) to an inclined slab (20 minutes). Ascend the slab, which is about 10 meters high and has a slope of 80–85°, to the ridge.

Follow the ridge to the third gap. Before the gap, there is a small gendarme (cairn). It takes 20 minutes from the slab. From the gendarme, there is a sporty descent into the gap. From the gap, ascend a 40-meter slope with a slope of 55–60° to a sharp ridge. Along the ridge, after 60 meters, there is an exit to the summit. Height 3100 m.

It takes 20 minutes from the cairn. It takes 1 hour 40 minutes from the platform to the summit. The summit is a ruined rocky platform; the cairn is at the end of the platform. From the summit, there are views of:

  • Sofia river gorge
  • Sofia peak
  • Main Caucasian Range
  • Dombay peaks
  • Elbrus, etc.

Descend via the ascent route.

Attached files

Sources

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