2.1.25

Description

Traversing the "Laub" massif from east to west, category 2B difficulty. Height — 2900 m. (Photo № 2)

From the base camp at "Kardyvach" lake, the path to the saddle of the Main ridge of "Laub" peak goes along the trail to the snow cone protruding from the couloir.

We cross the snow cone from right to left and ascend to the steep grassy slopes covered with dense snow. Having reached the oval ridge, we continue moving straight north along it, in the direction of the visible couloir, which leads to the saddle — the beginning of the traverse.

The path along the snowy oval ridge is straightforward and takes 1 hour 30 minutes to reach the couloir.

Couloir:

• Completely covered with snow, with ice patches in some areas;
• Pressing to the left side, we use an ice axe for belay;
• On the way, there are small protruding rock outcrops, which are passed directly — the rocks are straightforward;
• There are two small drops with ice sections in the couloir;
• The condition of the ice is good;
• Two ice screws are inserted for belay in these areas.

At the exit to the main ridge, the couloir splits into two. The group passed through the left couloir.

The entire path through the couloir to the saddle of the main ridge takes 2 hours.

There is a place for an overnight stay on the saddle.

Further, the path goes along the ridge from east to west. The ridge is composed of granite. The rocks are destroyed, straightforward. The key challenging sections on the ridge are the passage of 4 gendarmes. All gendarmes are passable directly, as bypassing them from the north or south is more complicated.

1st gendarme is passed along easy rocks with belay through outcrops relatively easily. The descent from the gendarme is also straightforward. The saddle between the 1st and 2nd gendarmes is narrow.

The 2nd gendarme has a small couloir at its base, which turns into a 2 m high chimney. Having exited the chimney onto the rocks, we move a little to the right onto a small ridge, which leads to the gendarme. Belay is organized through outcrops.

The path through the 1st and 2nd gendarmes:

• Takes 1 hour 20 minutes.

The descent from the 2nd gendarme is also straightforward — along easy rocks. The saddle is sharp.

3rd gendarme. Immediately, we go steeply up along strongly destroyed, steep rocks with snow-covered areas. Rare monolithic outcrops help to organize reliable belay.

The exit to the gendarme is along a large inclined ledge from right to left, reaching its western part.

Descent:

• We descend along a steep snowy slope into the depression between the 3rd and 4th gendarmes.
• There is snow on the saddle, suitable for an overnight stay.
• 1 hour is required for the ascent and descent.

4th gendarme.

Ascent to the gendarme:

• Is carried out along a 60–70° wall, 60 m long.
• The wall has outcrops, cracks, and crevices.
• 4 rock pitons were hammered for the passage of the wall.
• The wall is climbed directly from the saddle upwards in the direction of the sharp ridge, which turns to the right and approaches the highest point of the gendarme, representing a snow-covered dome with overhanging cornices on the northern side.

A control cairn is built on the dome.

Descent from the 4th gendarme:

• Into a deep depression.
• Along strongly destroyed and snow-covered rocks.

Summit.

From the saddle, we descend 10 m into the couloir, which steeply descends to the pre-summit part. The couloir is steep, snow-covered. We move in three steps with belay through an ice axe, pressing to its right side.

In the upper part of the couloir, not reaching the wall, we cross the couloir and exit onto the rocks. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The relief is diverse. We move steeply upwards in the direction of the summit. Belay is through outcrops.

The summit is the end of a rocky ridge with a snow cornice facing northeast above its wall. The cairn is built a little below the summit, on a rocky section.

The descent from the summit is carried out along the category 1B route, to "Laub" pass and further to the base camp at Kardyvach lake. The entire traverse of the "Laub" massif from east to west took 12 hours. The group believes that the route deserves category 2B difficulty.

Leader and participants:

• Litvinov V. (1st sports category)
• Kisel S. (1st sports category)
• Pogosyan L. (3rd sports category)
• Agarkov A. (3rd sports category)