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SummitMate

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Description of the route 2A category of difficulty to the summit 20 лет ССО (3350 m) via the northern ridge with details of passing sections and insurance.

B. 20 лет ССО (3350) via the northern ridge, 2А category of difficulty

From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southerly direction until you reach a high, rocky plateau (1 hour). Cross the plateau in an easterly direction, passing by the beginning of a talus ridge (1.5 hours). Descend via a traverse along the slope of the gorge and the first lake. Move along the gorge until you reach a control cairn. Continue southward, bypassing lakes 2 and 3 on the left, and proceed to a clearly visible pass between V. 3000 m and V. 20 лет ССО. The route begins with an osypnoy (talus) couloir.

  • Section 0–1: From the start of the osypnoy couloir, ascend towards the pass. At the pass, there is a control cairn.
  • Section 1–2: Move along the ridge from the pass, following the base of a gendarme. Simultaneous movement with belay through ledges.
  • Section 2–3: Ascend from the base of the gendarme to its summit along the ridge. Near the summit of the gendarme, navigate through a crack in a smooth, inclined slab. Alternating movement with piton belay. At the summit of the gendarme, there is a 2nd control cairn.
  • Section 3–4: Descend from the summit of the gendarme down a vertical slab and a rappel loop using free climbing onto a horizontal ledge. Alternating movement with piton belay.
  • Section 4–5: Rappelling from the rappel loop onto a horizontal ledge at the base of the gendarme; 6 meters after starting the descent, perform a 20–25° pendulum swing to the left under an overhanging section. Continue descending through a 2nd overhanging section until reaching the base of the gendarme.
  • Section 5–6: Simultaneous movement along inclined slabs to the right of the ridge with belay using ledges and protection elements.
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Description of the route to Peak Komsomola via Thorns' Pass, category of difficulty 3-4 with a detailed analysis of technical sections and belay.

П. KOMSOMOLA — 25 via Tornolzhnikov Pass. The ridge is reached from the pass, the rocks are snowy in places, ridge of the 3rd cat. dif. Several small monolithic "gendarms" are overcome head-on. The length is 300 m, the average steepness is 45–50°. Overcoming with variable belay. Further, the ridge is heavily destroyed, there are many live stones - both small and large. Descent along the ledges. The length of the section is 200 m, 2 cat. dif. It is traversed simultaneously on a shortened rope. Bypassing the "lopata" gendarme on the right along the ledge, 100 m, 2 cat. dif. Between the ridge and the gendarme - a cornice on both sides. Ascent to the ridge along a steep talus. Then:

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Ascent to Peak Komsomol (3429 m) via the central counterfort of the North Face, a challenging route that includes rocky and snowy terrain.

p. Komsomol (3429) on the central ridge — Category III complexity

From the base camp, we ascend to the plateau in the direction of the E Glacier (I, category 7). We then move along the plateau in its eastern direction towards the beginning of the p. Komsomol ridge. We cross the ridge in its lower, gentler part and descend along the moraine to the lakes (I, 54). We move along the lakes to the saddle between v. Spartak and the ridge of p. Komsomol. After crossing the saddle, we ascend to the route (I, 54). At the beginning of the route, there is a guiding cairn. After the guiding cairn, we move along the snow, about 200 m. Then, we ascend along easy rocks, 150 m, on a wide ridge, and then reach the "ram's foreheads" (60–70 m). At the time of ascent, the "ram's foreheads" were snow-covered — movement with organization of rope protection. Further:

  • we ascend along moderately difficult rocks to a wall, 5–6 m high, before which a control cairn is located (to the right, a large gendarme is located in a couloir);
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Ascent to the peak of Komosomol (3429 m) via the central counterfort, category 3A, height difference 730 m, rocky terrain.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing
  2. Climbing area — Tuvinian ASSR, Western Sayan, Tsagan-Shibetu ridge
  3. Peak — Komsomol peak (3429 m), via the central counterfort
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A category
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 730 m, length of sections with III–IV category of difficulty — 310 m, average steepness — 40°–45°.
  6. Pitons hammered for belaying:
    • rock: 8/0;
    • ice: 9/0;
    • bolt: 0/0;
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The traverse route of the peaks of Komsomola and 20 let SSO, category of complexity 2B, length of 3 sections, 10 walking hours.

Тraverse В. KOMSOMOLA — В. 20 LET SSO 2B. section 0–1: Wide rocky ridge, heavily destroyed ridge — exit to В. Kom­so­mo­la. section 1–2: Snowy slope leads to the saddle between В. Kom­so­mo­la and В. 20 Let SSO. section 2–3: Pre-summit rocky ridge. Heavily destroyed in the lower part. In the middle part of the ridge:

  • a "жандарм" (bypassed on the right)
  • followed by a rocky couloir (60 m, steep rocky wall). After the couloir:
  • a narrow rocky saddle,
  • a narrow rocky ridge, ending with an internal corner. Along the internal corner — to the rocky ridge. After 60 m — the summit.
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Description of the route to the top of V. Krasnoyarsk (3340) with category III difficulty level, including details of traversing certain sections and characteristics of the terrain.

V. Krasnoyarsk (3340) via N ridge

sec. 0–I: Steep snowy couloir with rocky sec. I–2: Not clearly defined steep rocky ridge. Bypass to the right via steep ledges. sec. 2–3: Wide, destroyed ridge. Stick to the right side, exit to the ridge at the end of the section. sec. 3–4: Move slightly below the ridge on the right side via ledges. sec. 4–5: Steep rocky ridge. The ridge becomes gentler at the end of the section. Rocks are destroyed. sec. 5–6: Traverse along the ridge. Before reaching the summit, there's a connecting ridge with a descent and ascent with belay. Descent via scree ledges on the 3rd side. Moving time — 10 hours.

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Description of the ascent route to "Красногорск" peak (3340 m) via the eastern ridge from the "Горнолыжный" pass, category 3 difficulty.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class: rock II. Ascent area: Tuva, Tsagan-Shibetu ridge III. Ascent route: peak "Krasnoyarsk" (3340 m) from the "Gornolyzhny" pass via the eastern ridge IV. Difficulty category: 3A V. Route characteristics: * elevation gain: 700 m * section lengths: * 3A diff. cat.: 400 m

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Route description to the summit Krasnoyarskiy Burevestnik (3010) with a complexity category of 2B.

V. Krasnoyarsky Burevestnik (3010) — 2B

centered control point. South slope. From the guiding cairn, move upwards, bypassing the left edges from the right, across a snowy rocky scree to a large, standalone stone "ring". Section 0–I: Movement across inclined slabs. A rocky couloir with loose stones is crossed towards the right edge, centered control point. Section I–2: Movement across inclined slabs. Section 2–3: Bypass the edge from the right across inclined shelves, then 3 meters of rock climbing (5%) straight up. Exit onto the edge. Section 3–4: Movement across icy, inclined slabs of the edge, to the wall before exiting onto a shelf. 2 meters up the wall with complex climbing (5). On the shelf, there's a control cairn and a comfortable spot for an overnight stay. Section 4–5: Movement across an icy-snowy couloir, then across complex rocks with flow ice, right side of the inner corner.

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Description of the ascent route to the top of V. Munhu Lik, difficulty category, indicating the approach path and duration of the ascent.

V. Munhu Lik — via N ridge From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southern direction until you reach the high-altitude stony plateau (1 hour). Then cross the plateau in the direction of V. Munhu Lik to the southwest and descend into the Ozernoe gorge (1.5 hours). Further, the path lies along the gorge alongside the lakes to the south, then the gorge turns under the northern wall of V. Munhu Lik. Along it, approach the base of the northern ridge (1.5 hours). The route starts from a clearly pronounced saddle under the northern ridge. Travel time — 8 hours.

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Description of a category 3B route to the summit of Munhuluk (3577 m) in the Tsagan-Shibetu ridge, Tuva, with details on the approach and ascent.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category. Rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area. Mountain system of Tuva. Tsagan-Shibetu ridge.
  3. Peak Munkhulik, 3577 m above sea level, via N ridge, combined route.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m; length of sections: 3rd category of difficulty — 530 m, 4th category of difficulty — 70 m; average steepness — 45°
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — 6, ice — 4, chocks — 9.
  7. Climbing hours — 8 hours.
  8. No overnight stays.
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