Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: rock II. Ascent area: Tuva, Tsagan-Shibetu ridge III. Ascent route: peak "Krasnoyarsk" (3340 m) from the "Gornolyzhny" pass via the eastern ridge IV. Difficulty category: 3A V. Route characteristics: * elevation gain: 700 m * section lengths: * 3A diff. cat.: 400 m * 2B diff. cat.: 200 m * 1B diff. cat.: 1500 m * total length: 2100 m * average steepness: 40°
VI. Pitons driven: 10 VII. Climbing hours: 8 VIII. Overnights: 2
IX. Participants and their sports qualification: * Nikolay Potapovich Kormukhin: 1st sports category * Sergey Alexandrovich Lavretiev: 1st sports category * Anatoly Konstantinovich Shlepkin: 1st sports category * Viktor Evgenievich Kislyakov: 2nd sports category
X. Team coach: Vladimir Vladimirovich Rozhkov, Master of Sports of the USSR
XI. Date of departure and return: * departure: May 3, 1979 * return: May 3, 1979
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak "Krasnoyarsk" (3340 m) via the eastern ridge edge from the "Gornolyzhny" pass.
| Date | Section designation | Average steepness | Length | Terrain character | Difficulty category | Section condition | Weather | Pitons: rock | ice | bolted |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| May 3, 1979 | R0–R1 | 50° | 1700 m | snow-ice couloir | 1, 2 | lower part – dry snow, upper part – ice | clear | – | – | – |
| R1–R2 | 60° | 400 m | rocky ridge | 3 | monolith | clear | 10 | – | – |
Return via 2B diff. cat. route.
Explanation for the main characteristics table
R0–R1. Snow-ice couloir. When moving in the initial and middle parts, stick to rocky outcrops. Ice in the upper part.
R1–R2. Rocky ridge. Very slightly destroyed. Monolith with rich microstructure for using pitons and camming devices. The most difficult is the middle part of the ridge. When moving, stick to the right part of the ridge.
Return via 2B diff. cat. route. From the base camp, move south to the forest boundary. After 2 hours, reach the high-altitude plateau (2700 m) according to the altimeter. Move south along the plateau in the direction of peak "Krasnoyarsk" (3340 m). After 3 hours, we approach the cirque formed by:
- peak "Krasnoyarsk"
- peak "Komsomol"
Inside the cirque – a lake, bypassing which, we get to the start of the route.