Mshatka-Kaya — Category 16

On the left side of the "triangle" in the eastern part of the massif ("left triangle"), beyond

Between the Central and Eastern bastions, in the upper part of the wall, two long, oblique, intermittent ledges with trees form a large oblique angle, clearly visible from the road, and named the Triangle. The middle part of the route passes along the left ledge, forming the Triangle. From the upper road, 30 m east of the fork to the lower (main) road and the village of Foros, ascend first along the trail, and then up and to the right along the talus and simple rocks to a shrub- and tree-covered inclined terrace, located under the "Triangle". Along it, left and up to a large rusty inner corner (section R0: 100 m, 30–45°, no category; 50 m, 50^{\circ}, category I; 50 m, 30–40°, no category) On section R1–R2 — first 20 m up the sheer corner or its left wall. Then:

• 20 m up the wall to the left of the inner corner;
• 10 m up and left into the next inner corner.

Mshatka-Kaya — 2. "Halloween"

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Category: 3B Author: Kirill Gostev, Vladimir Odoyev A warm autumn day and a good mood, what else is needed for a pleasant climb. Of course, a location, a summit, where you can create a new route. Many will say - they say, in Foros there's no room left for pioneers, but if you think and take a closer look, you can find new lines. The route passes between the routes "Vilka levaya" (Left Fork) 2B and "Victoria" 2B. Despite the fact that the line is quite broken due to a long traverse, the route itself is interesting and logical, entirely tied to the relief, all stations are on their own gear and trees. Many sections of pleasant climbing.

Mshatka-Kaya — 7

Via the first counterforce of the western part of the massif ("Filatova"), 3B (20 m, V) (route by V. and A. Volkodav and E. Filatova, 1972)

This is one of the most popular routes among climbers of average qualification. 50 m east of the climbers' camp near the Foros Canyon, from the upper highway, ascend up and to the right first along the trail, and then along simple rocks in the direction of the first counterforce of the western part of the massif. The main part of the route begins from a horizontal ledge located at the base of the left side of the counterforce (section R0: 300 m, 45°, no category). On section R1–R2 — up along the inner corner 15 m to a ledge with a tree. Then, first along the wall, and then left and up to a tree (R1–R2: 15 m, 70°, II; 25 m, 75°, III).

Mshatka-Kaya — 19

Along the right side of the triangle in the eastern part of the massif ("triangle on the right"), category 3B

Between the Central and Eastern bastions, in the upper part of the wall, two long oblique discontinuous shelves with trees form a large oblique angle, clearly visible from the road, and named the Triangle. The main part of the route passes along the right discontinuous shelf forming the Triangle. From the upper road, 30 m east of the fork to the lower (main) road and the village of Foros, ascend first along the trail, and then up and to the right along the scree and simple rocks to a tree- and shrub-covered inclined terrace located under the "Triangle". Along it to the upper right corner (section R0: 250 m, 30–50°, category I) On section R1–R2 — from the right upper corner of the terrace, ascend a 10-meter wall to a long discontinuous groove — the right lateral side of the "Triangle". Along the groove, left and upwards to a large tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, category III) On section R2–R3 — first up into a small mulde, and then up and left to a shelf at the base of a small internal angle. Along it, left to the external angle (ridge) and then to a small, narrowing shelf (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, category III). On section R3–R4 — along complex rocks, left and upwards (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, category IV+). On section R4–R5 — ascend steep and smooth slabs to the base of an overgrown couloir — the "apex" of the Triangle (R4–R5: 50 m, 70–60°, category III–II). On section R5–R6 — up the couloir and left to the base of a steep internal angle (R5–R6: 40 m, 60°, category II).

Crimea. Mshatka-Kaya "Boomerang" Route, 4A

On June 17, 2012, a group of three people - Gostev Kirill (Yalta), Odoyev Vladimir, and Leontyeva Ekaterina (Sevastopol) - made an ascent to the summit of Mshatka-Kaya via a new route. The route was named "Boomerang" and was estimated to be approximately 3B/4A (classified as 4A). It was done almost a year and a half ago, but it was only recently that the necessary paperwork was completed and the information was shared online. We are sharing the information with you:

• from the ascent passport
• UIAA scheme
• description.

Mshatka-Kaya Peak (650 m), "Boomerang" Route.

Difficulty category: presumably 3B/4A (classified as 4A)

Route Characteristics:

length — 300 m (7 ropes); length of sections:

Mshatka-Kaya — 8

Via the second counter-forcing route of the western part of the "Ear" massif, 4A

This is one of the most popular routes among climbers of average qualification. From the upper highway 50 m east of the climbers' parking near Forosky Kant:

• up and to the right at first along the trail and simple rocks
• to the base of the second counter-forcing route of the western part of the massif (R0: 300 m, 30–45, no category). On the R1–R2 section:
• up the system of walls and shelves
• then along the inner corner to a tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 700, III). On the R2–R4 section — at first up and left into the inner corner. Then along it for 70 m.

Mshatka-Kaya — category 17

Through the center of the "triangle" in the eastern part of the massif ("triangle in the center"), 4a (route by A. Volkodav and M. Bystritsky, 1973)

Between the Central and Eastern bastions, in the upper part of the wall, two long, oblique, interrupted shelves with trees form a large oblique angle, clearly visible from the road and referred to as the "Triangle". Below these shelves is a steep wall. In its center, a group of trees on a terrace is clearly visible. The route passes through the center of the wall to this group of trees, and then upwards and to the left — to a long shelf forming the left side of the "Triangle". From the upper road, 30 m east of the fork to the main road and Foros settlement, ascend first along the trail, and then along the talus and simple rocks to a sloping terrace overgrown with bushes and trees, and along it to the central part of the wall (R0: 200 m, 30–50°, no category — I).

Mshatka-Kaya — 9

Along the left edge of the Central Bastion (“Triangulyatsiya”), 4B (35 m, V)

From the upper highway 50 m east of the alpinist camps under Forosky Kant, ascend up and to the right, first along the trail, and then across simple rocks to the left edge of the Central Bastion (R0: 350 m, 30–45, no category). The sections of the route R1–R5 pass along a wide internal corner situated between the second buttress and the Central Bastion. Initially, ascend along the right side of the internal corner, and then Across steep slabs in its middle part (R1–R3: 70 m, 70°, III+). On the R3–R4 section:

Mshatka-Kaya — 11

Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" — blue line on the photograph

Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" (5A)

Author: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko («Odes­sit»), Odes­sa A well-known route, climbed in the ancient times. Currently, many bolt hanger hooks are in disrepair, but the route is fully passable. You can approach the route from the Filatova contrefort or directly from the road via simple rocks. The route starts from an inner corner leading to the base of the "strelka" (IV+). Then:

• up the crack,
• to the top of the "strelka" (V),

Mshatka-Kaya — 12. «Kaskad»

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: V, A2 Authors: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of creation: 2006 Number of pitches: 9 Length: 370 m The route goes through the center of the wall, crossing a series of ledges, with a logical transition to the left in the upper part. Further, the route coincides with the «Strelka» route. The approach to the route is from the old Yalta road, 200 m to the right of the fork to Baydarskie Vorota; a trail leads to the wall. Follow the trail, then the scree, generally left and up, to approach the lower belt of rocks. Through the rocks of the lower belt, left and up, choosing the optimal path, reach a ledge. Then traverse along the ledges to the left with a slight gain in height.