p. Komsomol (3429) on the central ridge — Category III complexity

From the base camp, we ascend to the plateau in the direction of the E Glacier (I, category 7).

We then move along the plateau in its eastern direction towards the beginning of the p. Komsomol ridge.

We cross the ridge in its lower, gentler part and descend along the moraine to the lakes (I, 54).

We move along the lakes to the saddle between v. Spartak and the ridge of p. Komsomol.

After crossing the saddle, we ascend to the route (I, 54).

At the beginning of the route, there is a guiding cairn.

After the guiding cairn, we move along the snow, about 200 m. Then, we ascend along easy rocks, 150 m, on a wide ridge, and then reach the "ram's foreheads" (60–70 m). At the time of ascent, the "ram's foreheads" were snow-covered — movement with organization of rope protection.

Further:

  • we ascend along moderately difficult rocks to a wall, 5–6 m high, before which a control cairn is located (to the right, a large gendarme is located in a couloir);
  • we bypass the wall to the right and ascend along несложным разрушенным скалам to an internal corner — 10 m (rope protection);
  • along a разрушённому гребню (100 m) to a rock wall with an overhang (15 m, 85–90°);
  • we bypass the wall to the right along a snowy couloir (80–90 m, rope protection) — movement along the couloir is to the left of rock острови (strongly разрушающихся);
  • the couloir leads to a snowy ridge (150 m), protection — rope or alternate through an ice axe;
  • we reach a pre-summit snowy ridge (200–250 m) and then along the ridge to the summit.

The ascent from the guiding cairn to the summit took 4 hours. The descent from the summit is along the route of Category I complexity.

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