Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: Technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Iskander, 5140 m, via the Northwest ridge 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B category, rock 5. Route characteristics: height difference 4300–5140 m, 840 m; length of sections of 5–6 cat. sl. 420 m (V — 305 m, VI — 115 m); average steepness 62° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying: * Chocks — 68 * Rock — 171

Ascent Passport I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak S.Iskander (5000 m) via the northwest edge. 4. Second ascent, combined 5B category of difficulty. 5. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1330 m. Height difference of the wall section — 750 m. Length of the wall section — 830 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 65°. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 255 m, 6th category of difficulty — 320 m. 6. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su gorge.
3. Peak Iskander North, 5000 m, via the left edge of the Eastern wall.
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: wall section height difference — 900 m, total route height difference — 1120 m, total route length — 1560 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 450 m,

Ascent Passport

38a

1. Ascent class — traverse class
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
3. Iskander S. (5000 m) via the right part of the Eastern wall, first ascent — Iskander Gl. (5120 m) — Petrovgradets (5163 m)
4. Complexity category — approximately 6A category, first ascent
5. Height difference of Iskander S. Eastern wall — 950 m
   • including the wall section — 460 m Length of Iskander S. Eastern wall:
   • total — 4030 m

Climbing Passport

1. Category: Technical
2. Region: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Asu gorge.
3. Summit: Iskander via the eastern wall
4. Route: Combined, first ascent, approximately 5B category difficulty
5. Elevation gain: 1049 m
6. Average slope of the route: 66°
7. Average slope of the wall section: 75°
8. Route length: 1813 m
9. Pitons used: rock — 66, chocks — 133, bolts — 1

5.4 .2 .

4 АК

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Turkestan Range, Ashat gorge.
3. East Parus (4800) via North ridge, combined route.
4. Approximately 4800 m, diff. 6, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 800 m, length of sections V cat. diff. — 65 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°
6. Pitons hammered:

43 I Championship of the All-Union Council of the All-Union Voluntary Sports Society (VDSSO) of Trade Unions on Alpinism 1989 Technical Class REPORT on the ascent (first ascent) to Peak 4800 m (Parus Eastern) via the bastion of the North-East wall, approximately 6A category of difficulty, by the team of the "Olimp" Alpine Club of the Sumy Regional Council of VDSSO Trade Unions from August 9 to 17, 1989. Team Leader: Mityukhin F.P. Team Coach: Mityukhin F.P. 1989. Addresses:

• "Olimp" Alpine Club of the Sumy Regional Council of VDSSO Trade Unions 244011, Sumy, Novomestenskaya St., 26

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Uryam gorge 3. Peak 4800 m (Parus Vostochny) via the right part of the North-Eastern wall, rock 4. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 900 m, length — 1090 m, length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty — 305 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge — 74° (3900–4510), base of the wall — summit — 60° (3900–4800) 6. Pitons hammered on the route Friends 74/22; rock pitons 67/32; ice screws 0/0; chocks 75/28; drilled pitons 7. Team's walking hours: 4 hours and days — 5. 8. Night stay: 0 — 2nd under the route, comfortable in a tent, 3rd — on an inclined platform, sitting, 4th — on the ridge

Parus (3rd peak), SW edge, cat. 5B 1480, 2043, 72°; 641 (39); 158 (39); 3/2; 5 days, 6 nights. 41 hours against Trench standard D. Egorov, I. Belyaev, S. Mikhailov, Ch. Khlyustikov (Masovy) from July 14 to 19, 1989 Photo-2. Route profile on the left (ridge) Taken from p. Ashat on July 13, 1989. S ≈ 5 km, H ≈ 2500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro. Photo-3. Route profile on the right (triangle) Taken from the cirque of v. Parus on July 11, 1989. S ≈ 7 km, H ≈ 3500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro.

Tactical Actions of the Team

Ministry of Sports and Tourism of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK REGIONAL FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2014

Class: High-Altitude Technical

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Parus Western 4850 m via the north wall. First ascent, 5B category of difficulty. Krasnoyarsk 2014.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak gorge area, Ashat gorge
2. Summit — Parus (3), 4850 m, via the center of the north wall