B. 20 лет ССО (3350) via the northern ridge, 2А category of difficulty

From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southerly direction until you reach a high, rocky plateau (1 hour). Cross the plateau in an easterly direction, passing by the beginning of a talus ridge (1.5 hours). Descend via a traverse along the slope of the gorge and the first lake. Move along the gorge until you reach a control cairn. Continue southward, bypassing lakes 2 and 3 on the left, and proceed to a clearly visible pass between V. 3000 m and V. 20 лет ССО.

The route begins with an osypnoy (talus) couloir.

  • Section 0–1: From the start of the osypnoy couloir, ascend towards the pass. At the pass, there is a control cairn.
  • Section 1–2: Move along the ridge from the pass, following the base of a gendarme. Simultaneous movement with belay through ledges.
  • Section 2–3: Ascend from the base of the gendarme to its summit along the ridge. Near the summit of the gendarme, navigate through a crack in a smooth, inclined slab. Alternating movement with piton belay. At the summit of the gendarme, there is a 2nd control cairn.
  • Section 3–4: Descend from the summit of the gendarme down a vertical slab and a rappel loop using free climbing onto a horizontal ledge. Alternating movement with piton belay.
  • Section 4–5: Rappelling from the rappel loop onto a horizontal ledge at the base of the gendarme; 6 meters after starting the descent, perform a 20–25° pendulum swing to the left under an overhanging section. Continue descending through a 2nd overhanging section until reaching the base of the gendarme.
  • Section 5–6: Simultaneous movement along inclined slabs to the right of the ridge with belay using ledges and protection elements.
  • Section 6–7: Alternating movement along smooth, inclined slabs with belay. Ascend to the summit.
  • Section 7–8: Descend from the summit along the ridge with alternating belay using ledges until reaching a rappel loop.

Section 8–9: Rappelling from the rappel loop onto a ledge via an internal corner.

Section 9–10: Simultaneous movement along the ridge with belay using ledges until reaching the col between V. 20 лет ССО and V. Komsomola.

Sources

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