П. KOMSOMOLA — 25 via Tornolzhnikov Pass.
The ridge is reached from the pass, the rocks are snowy in places, ridge of the 3rd cat. dif. Several small monolithic "gendarms" are overcome head-on. The length is 300 m, the average steepness is 45–50°. Overcoming with variable belay.
Further, the ridge is heavily destroyed, there are many live stones - both small and large. Descent along the ledges. The length of the section is 200 m, 2 cat. dif. It is traversed simultaneously on a shortened rope.
Bypassing the "lopata" gendarme on the right along the ledge, 100 m, 2 cat. dif. Between the ridge and the gendarme - a cornice on both sides. Ascent to the ridge along a steep talus.
Then:
- Exit to the rock, inner corner, 4 cat. dif., artificial aids, variable belay.
- The ascent to the ridge is carried out by passing the wall with a crack, 10 m, 4–5 cat. dif.
- Exit to the ridge.
On the ridge, there is a "katushka" wall with artificial aids, 4–5 cat. dif. The section is traversed using protection elements with handrail installation.
Further, there are walls with a steepness of 70°, artificial aids, 4 cat. dif. It is traversed by traversing along the crack.
Approach under the "golova yashcheritsy" gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the right along the "katushka" slabs 50 m, 4 cat. dif., with an exit to the ridge along the inner corner, местами frozen with ice, 20 m, 65°. Protection elements are used, handrails are installed.
Then:
- up along the clearly expressed edge, 3 cat. dif.
- from the edge, exit to an inclined ledge with an overhanging cornice above it
- traversed with variable belay along the ledge with an exit to the high point of the ridge, here is a control cairn
Further, the ridge is heavily destroyed, snow cornices are present along the entire ridge, местами firn turns into ice. Ridge 350 m, 2B cat. dif.
The pre-summit gendarme is bypassed on the right along a snowy ledge, descent to snowy rocks, to a saddle (snow cornice). Then, along snowy ledges up to a snow field. Through the field, ascent to the summit.
Descent along the route is of the 1B cat. dif.
