- Peak "25 лет Народной Польши" - 5207 m - via "Belyi Koni" mandarin 5A cat. diff.
July 24, 1969 Kazimierz Głazek Tadeusz Piórowski Krzysztof Cieluch Bogdan Jankowski
From "Polskie Noczowki" (see section for route description to "Polskie Noczowki") ascent via "Belyi Koni" mandarin (through snowy-ice fields, left ridge - 2 ropes on firm snow and 1 rope on ice) - exit to rocky ridge. Climb 40 m on mandarin summit via crumbling talus with icing. Then sporty descent to the saddle behind the mandarin.
From here:
- two ropes on crumbling rocky ridge with icing (steepness up to 70°),
- small ascent with ladder usage,
- further 50 m to the next ascent on similar ridge,
- traverse right and up about 20 m on practically sheer ice wall (live rocks),
- then 30 m of iced slabs with steepness up to 45° under big ridge ascent.
Left, the ridge drops with vertical rock walls to Ak-Terek glacier, right of the ridge - iced slabs with steepness up to 50°.
On slabs, non-slippery: right up 20 m, then straight up about 70 m - chopping steps in icing. Further:
- 100 m of practically horizontal ridge,
- last 100 m of snowy-ice ridge with 30° steepness, leading to the summit.
Ridge length from "Polskie Noczowki" to the summit - about 700 m.
Descent via ascent path to "Polskie Noczowki", then to Ak-Terek glacier and through Ivanov's pass - to glacier.