1.85

Ascent Report

to v. Skazka via North entronforts of the Eastern ridge (along the route) I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Akaya, North-Chuya Belki. 3. Skazka peak, 3500 m, ascent via North entronforts of the Eastern ridge, route is combined. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 4th difficulty grade — 360 m, average steepness — 40°. 6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombai-Ulgen Western (4036 m), via the bastion of the southern wall.
5. 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length – 1450 m; length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty – 360 m; average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge (excluding talus) – 72° (3070–3950); start of the route (“claw”) — summit – 55° (3000–4036).
7. Pitons hammered (including in the denominator for IT): rock 70/27, ice 0/0, bolt 0/0, anchor 155/51

Route Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Dombay, section number according to KMGV 2.2.
2. Dombay Western 4036 m via the counterfort of the South wall.
3. 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rock.
5. The height difference of the route is 1036 m (by altimeter). Route length 1715 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty 255 m. Length of sections with VI category of difficulty 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 80°, total route 55°.

Ascent Record,

done in the Ukrainian Council Championship of the “Avangard” Sports Society in mountaineering 1974.

1. Ascent category — technically challenging ascents.
2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus.
3. Ascent route — Mt. Amanauz (Main peak) 3757 m via S.-W. buttress of the southern wall.
4. Ascent details: total altitude gain — 700 m; altitude gain on very difficult sections — 520 m; average slope of the route — 65°; slope of very difficult sections — 85°;

All-Union Council of the DSO Trade Unions Department of Mountaineering Alplager "Dombay"

Caucasus

(2.2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass)

Amanauz Main (Dvuzubka)

3757 m via north-eastern wall through the "mirror"

Passport

1. Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
2. Dombai-Ulgen Western, via the bastion (bastion) of the southern wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Height difference: 1036 m. Route length — 1450 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 230 m, 6th category of difficulty — 130 m; Average steepness: main part of the route from the base of the wall to the ridge (excluding the talus hollow) — 72° (3070–3950).

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombay-Ulgen Western (4036 m), through the center of the Triangle of the southern wall.
5. Proposed 6B category difficulty, first ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length — 1690 m; length of sections 5–6 category difficulty — 605 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (Triangle South wall) — 84°;

Fig. 50

1. Ascent to Maly Dombay-Ulgen peak (3800 m) from the west — category 2B difficulty (Fig. 50 and 51, left and center)

From Dombayskaya polyana along the trail, to the right of Chuchkhur waterfalls, to Ptyshskaya nochovka. From Dombayskaya polyana 3–4 hours. From the nochovka to the left upwards along alpine meadows (partially a trail) to the left-bank moraine of Dombaysky glacier, from there to the left to the "ram's foreheads" and through them to the right-bank moraine (icefall possible!). Further upwards along the moraine along the glacier to a gentle green couloir. Through it to the southeast ridge of Maly Dombay and along the large talus to two

Fig. 52

3. Ascent to Maly Dombai-Ulgen peak via the northern ridge — category 4A (Fig. 52)

From Dombai clearing along the trail to the left of Chuchkhur waterfalls to Chuchkhur pass — bivouac. From Dombai clearing — 4–5 hours. From the pass along несложным разрушенным скалам (protection!) to the red rocks. First along the northern ridge, then exit to the rocks of the northeastern ridge and along narrow ledges on the eastern side of the ridge — exit to a wide crevice with a three-meter plug. Through this crevice via the plug — to the first ascent. Ascent to the first ascent:

Fig. 41

2. Ascent to the summit of Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen via the southern ridge with crossing Dombay and Ptysh passes — cat. 2B (see Fig. 40–42)

From Ptysh bivouac, up the moraine of Ptysh glacier (15–20 minutes) and left — towards Dombay pass. Ascend via the couloir (or its right side) and reach the eastern edge of Kruzhevoy glacier. Then:

• Ascend the snowy slope
• Ascend the wide couloir
• Traverse on the right side of the rocky ridge
• Reach Dombay pass — bivouac