11.3. 6А

ASCENT REPORT

1. Eastern Pamir, Kongurmustag Range (Kashgar)
2. Peak name: Kongur, 7719 m, route: North Ridge
3. Proposed category: 6A, second ascent
4. Route type: ice-snow
5. Height difference: 4000 m Route length: 6200 m Section length:

• Category 5: 1200 m

Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004

EURO-ASIAN ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING ASSOCIATION

11.3.6A

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent of Kongur Tagh (7719 m) at the Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004 Team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Vyacheslav V. Odokhovsky Expedition Leader: Yuri V. Khokhlov

Report

On the Ascent to Kongur Peak (7719)

Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express") 6A category of difficulty (Third passage of the route)

1. Climbing Passport

1. Region: Kongur-Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Karayaylak Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 11.3
2. Summit name: Kongur. Route name: Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express")
3. Category of difficulty — 6A.

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude Class

2023

ASCENT REPORT

on the ascent to the peak of Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the center of the Southwest wall 6B category of difficulty (approximately), first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast. Period: 01.08.2023 – 07.08.2023

Ascent Certificate

1. Region, gorge, classification table section number (2001) – 11.3 Mountain region: Kun-Lun (China, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region), Muztagata massif
2. Name of the peak: Koskulak (7028 m), route name: via NW ridge
3. Proposed – 5A category, first ascent
4. Route type: snow-ice
5. Route elevation gain: 2230 m (by altimeter and GPS) Route length: 6060 m. Length of sections: V category – 360 m, VI category – 0 m. Average slope: main part of the route – 22°, including: 5200–5500 section – 35°, 6100–6200 section – 45°, entire route – 22°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total 0, including bolted – 0

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table (2001) – 11.3 Mountain region of Kunlun (China, Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region), Muztagata massif, Kalakhong glacier.
2. Name of the peak: Peak Koskulak, 7028 m, route name: via SW ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: 5A category, approximately; first ascent
4. Nature of the route — snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 2100 m (according to map, altimeter, and GPS); route length – 6025 m; length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 210 m;

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ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Region: Eastern Pamir, China, section 11.3 of the classification table.
2. Name of the peak: Koskulak, 7028 m, route: via the North face.
3. Proposed - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Character of the route: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: about 1300 m. Total length of the route: about 2300 m. Length of sections:
   • V category of difficulty - 160 m

1. Climbing Passport

1. Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Kunlun). Gorge: Chimgan. Section number according to the 1999 classification table No. 11.3
2. Name of the summit: Pik Kyzylsel Route name: via the eastern ridge from the South Chimgan Glacier.
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty
4. Route type: Ice and snow
5. Height difference of the route: 1685 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4712 m. Section length:

• 5th cat. diff. – 2 m

Passport

1. Class: High-altitude technical
2. Eastern Pamir, Kashgar Mountains (western China)
3. Peak Muztag-Ata (7546 m) via the western ridge, cat. diff. 5A
4. Proposed cat. diff. 5B (possibly the 3rd ascent by a purely Russian team)
5. Height difference — 3000 m, length — 9000 m, average slope — 20°
6. Used pitons, 6 ice screws
7. Climbing days — 3.5–5 (including descent to base camp)
8. Overnights:
   • 1st in tents on a rocky platform

Ascent Passport

1. Region: China — Kunlun, Kongur Muztagh range. Section number according to the classification table 11.3.
2. Peak name: Muztag Ata. Route name: via the Northwest Ridge
3. Route classified by FASIЛ KР: 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character: snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 3450 m. Route length: 14000 m. Length of section V category of difficulty ___________ m, VI category of difficulty ___________ m. Average steepness 30°
6. Pitons left on the route: total ___________ including piton hangers ___________. Use of pitons on the route: