Ascent Logbook

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Bashkara (4241 m) via the North wall (Yu. Grigorenko-Prigoda route)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: from Bashkara glacier — 920 m, from bergschrund — 670 m. average steepness: wall section — 62°, entire route — 50°. length of sections: 1st difficulty category — 0 m, 2nd difficulty category — 530 m, 3rd difficulty category — 175 m, 4th difficulty category — 300 m, 5th difficulty category — 290 m, 6th difficulty category — 110 m.

II Asport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face.
4. Proposed category of difficulty – 5B, rated.
5. Route characteristics: height difference including the icefall 600 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 510 m, avg. slope 65°, 6th category of difficulty 80 m, avg. slope 85°, average slope of the wall section of the route 60.5°
6. Pitons driven: rock 53, bolt 7/7, ice 15, chock stones 91/4
7. Total climbing time 17.5 hours

I. Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge.
3. Bashkara peak via North wall 4241 m.
4. Complexity category 6A.
5. Height difference 568 m; length 693 m; average steepness 57°.
6. Number of pitons used:

   ice	rock	chocks	bolt
   		elements

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Bashkara (4241 m) via the N wall of the 3rd shoulder.
4. Difficulty category — 6A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 935 m.
   • wall section length — 400 m.
   • height difference — 741 m.
   • average steepness 53°.

Bashkara — Gadyl traverse, cat. 4A, K. Agger route, I4

From the "Green Hotel" we move along the Jankuat glacier in the direction of the Jantugan plateau and the pass located between the Aristov rocks and the ridge of the Jantugan peak. By-passing the bergschrund on the left, we reach the Jantugan plateau. From the bivouac site, the path to the peak goes southwest across the plateau in the direction of the N-E ridge of Bashkara. At the last slope descending from this ridge (further up, a sheer wall of the Bashkara massif rises), they cross the bergschrund and go along the talus with rocks protruding from it. The "gendarme" is bypassed on the left along easy rocks. Having reached the ridge, you need to pass a small snow bridge that leads directly to the rather steep rocks of the ridge leading to the summit. Without reaching the ridge itself, but sticking to its left side, you need to overcome a number of crevices and chimneys along fairly strong rocks (pitch). Having passed this first stage, they overcome the second, easier belt of rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge all the way to the summit. The tower encountered on the way is bypassed on the left. Above it lies a small snowpatch, which must be crossed near the rocks. Having gone 20 meters, they turn onto the rocks and reach a small depression that separates the Bashkara peak into two parts:

• The first part is the northern one, which is the highest point of the peak.
• From the lowest point of the peak - the southern one - the ridge goes to the Gadyl peak. The ascent from the bivouac on the Jantugan plateau to the summit takes 9-10 hours. From the Bashkara summit, the path goes to the left along the ridge in the direction of the Gadyl peak. There are a large number of "gendarmeries" on the ridge:
• The 1st is taken head-on,
• The 2nd is bypassed on the right.

120. Bzhedug via the Southeast Ridge (Category II route) The path from the Djantugan alp camp to the "Ryzhie" ("Red") Rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier is described in Route 118. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks (without backpacks), descend to the right onto the Kashkatash Glacier and ascend on its left side (beware of crevasses!). The icefall is bypassed on the left under the slopes of Ullukara Peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). After the icefall, move to the right onto the upper snow plateau of the Kashkatash Glacier. Move up the plateau - to the right under the col of the ridge between Bzhedug Peak on the right and Volnaya Ispaniya (Free Spain) Peak on the left. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 1.5-2 hours. From the upper plateau of the glacier, ascend the steep, partially rugged snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya Peak (avalanches and icefall are possible from Bzhedug!). It is better to bypass the crevasses on the slope on the left. A large crevasse crossing almost the entire slope not far from the col should be overcome via a snow bridge or bypassed on the right. After the crevasse - up the steep snow slope and a small ice-snow ascent to the narrow snow ridge of the col (beware of cornices!). From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 4-5 hours. At the col, turn to the right and ascend the snowy Southeast Ridge of Bzhedug Peak, which gradually turns into a snow slope. Further:

• along the scree ridge - slope,
• along the gently sloping snow ridge - ascent to the summit of Bzhedug. From the col - 1-2 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. To the Djantugan alp camp - 4-5 hours. Duration of the route - 2 days. Special equipment for 4 people:
• main rope - 2 × 30 m,

117. Bzhedukh via the left ice slope of the Northwest Wall (Yu. Naumov's route, category 3B). The path from the Shhelda alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh Peak with a bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Bzhedukh Glacier or a rocky outcrop under the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh is described in route 116. From the bivouac site, bypass the rocky drop of the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh Peak on the left along the glacier and exit onto a steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the massif to the Bzhedukh Glacier. Ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, overcoming a bergschrund in the lower part, a 600-800-meter ascent (avalanches, piton protection!) along the left side of the Northwest Wall to a snowy rocky ridge located above the rocky drop of the Northwest Wall of the peak. From here, ascend traversing upwards - to the right (avalanches!), crossing numerous couloirs and ridges, to rocky outcrops of a relatively large, clearly pronounced ridge. Then, along a steep snowy ridge - slope, ascend to the North Ridge of Bzhedukh Peak. Here, turn right and ascend along a snowy slope and simple rocks to the summit of Bzhedukh. From the initial bivouac, 9-11 hours. Descent from the summit along the southeast ridge with a bivouac on the col (see route 120). The duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people:

• main rope — 2 × 40 m
• accessory cord — 2 m
• rock pitons — 4–5
• ice screws — 6–8

в. Бжедух, 4270 m, via North ridge, lс, 3Б cat. sl., L. Distel's route, R0. From Джантуган ASB we ascend to overnight stays below the "Red rocks". From the overnight stays we exit via the Кашка — Таш glacier in the direction of the big couloir of the north ridge of в. Бжедух. We ascend via snow in the couloir to the upper part of the rocky island. Traversing the destroyed rocks upwards to the right, we exit to the boundary of rocks and snow. In the upper part of the ridge we circumvent small rocky walls with a traverse to the left — upwards to the ridge (from overnight stays 90–120 min). On the ridge we move along the scree towards в. Бжедух. Having passed the wide part of the ridge along the screes to the rocky section rising towards the summit, we traverse 100–120 m. The descent from the ridge down to the Бжедух glacier is not difficult (from the start of the ridge to the descent to the glacier — 60–75 min). About an hour is needed to walk along the glacier to the snowy ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the right. Further, the path goes along a snowy-icy ascent:

• At the end — an icy ascent.
• Move on front points with insurance via ice screws.
• In the upper part, icy overhangs loom.
• Pass the entire snowy ridge to the left of these overhangs (4–5 hours).

в. Bakedux, 4270 m по В кф. сл. гре­бня, к 4Ак (сл. маршрут D. Ду­равско­го), 55

V. Blud­ukh, 4270 m, via NW wall, cat. dif. 4A, A. Ro­ma­nov's route, 56 From the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp, follow the right side of the Shkhelda gorge down to the Shkhelda glacier. Immediately after reaching the glacier, cross it in the direction of the stream descending from the Bzhe­dukh glacier, and follow its right side. Then, ascend steep grassy slopes to reach the right-bank moraine (relative to the direction of travel) of the Bzhedukh glacier. From the moraine, approach the rocky ridge in the right part of the Bzhedukh glacier and ascend it in its middle section via wide ledges. Follow the ridge to the right, towards its highest point. Set up a bivouac here. 5–6 hours from the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp.