- Bzhedug via the Southeast Ridge (Category II route)
The path from the Djantugan alp camp to the "Ryzhie" ("Red") Rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier is described in Route 118. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks (without backpacks), descend to the right onto the Kashkatash Glacier and ascend on its left side (beware of crevasses!). The icefall is bypassed on the left under the slopes of Ullukara Peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). After the icefall, move to the right onto the upper snow plateau of the Kashkatash Glacier. Move up the plateau - to the right under the col of the ridge between Bzhedug Peak on the right and Volnaya Ispaniya (Free Spain) Peak on the left. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 1.5-2 hours.
From the upper plateau of the glacier, ascend the steep, partially rugged snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya Peak (avalanches and icefall are possible from Bzhedug!). It is better to bypass the crevasses on the slope on the left. A large crevasse crossing almost the entire slope not far from the col should be overcome via a snow bridge or bypassed on the right. After the crevasse - up the steep snow slope and a small ice-snow ascent to the narrow snow ridge of the col (beware of cornices!). From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 4-5 hours.
At the col, turn to the right and ascend the snowy Southeast Ridge of Bzhedug Peak, which gradually turns into a snow slope. Further:
- along the scree ridge - slope,
- along the gently sloping snow ridge - ascent to the summit of Bzhedug.
From the col - 1-2 hours.
Descent is via the ascent route. To the Djantugan alp camp - 4-5 hours. Duration of the route - 2 days.
Special equipment for 4 people:
- main rope - 2 × 30 m, -prusik cord - 2 m,
- rock pitons - 2-3,
- ice screws - 3-4,
rock hammer - 1, carabiners - 8, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1.
Possible bivouac sites:
- on the col
- on the scree of the ridge
- on the summit
"Baksan Valley", A. F. Naumov