Ascent Report on Mt. Chegem 6A Category of Complexity via Forostyan's Route on the NE Wall and NE Ridge, accomplished by the team of "Vershina" mountain club, Volgograd region. Ascent Passport

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range, upper reaches of the western branch of Chegem gorge.
2. Mt. Chegem 4461 m. NE wall, NE ridge, Forostyan's route.
3. 6A category of complexity.
4. Combined route.
5. Height difference — 1290 m. Distance — 1936 m. Length of sections with V category — 308 m. Length of sections with VI category — 201 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: 2.4.1. Caucasus, Chegem gorge
2. Peak name: Chegem (4461 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge (Forostyan's route)
3. Difficulty category: 6A
4. Route characteristics: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 1160 m Route length: 1700 m Section lengths:
   • cat. V difficulty – 200 m
   • cat. VI difficulty – 260 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — winter.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus, Adyrskiy ridge.
3. Chegem (4461) NE wall, NE ridge, 6A cat. diff. Forostyan's route.
4. Height difference of the wall section — 550 m.
5. From the foot of the wall section to the summit — 1050 m.
6. Average steepness of the wall — 85°.
7. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 385 m.
8. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Moscow City Championship in mountaineering in high-altitude technical class.

Report on the ascent of the team from the MPEI Rock Climbers and Mountaineers Club to v. Chegem (4351 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge, 6A category.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge, Adyrsky ridge. According to KMGV classification – 2.4.1. 2. Chegem peak, 4351 m, via the NE wall of the NE ridge (route by V. Forostyan). 3. Category of difficulty – 6A. 4. Route type — rock climbing. 5. Elevation gain on the route – 1200 m.

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak via the Forostyan route, 6A category of complexity, by the team from the Demchenko Alpine Club, Moscow Region, August 4–6, 2020

1. Ascent Report

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2020 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak 4351 m via the NE wall, NE ridge (Forostyan's route), 6A category of complexity by the team from Samara region and Moscow for the period from August 12 to 13, 2020.

1. Ascent Passport

Moscow City Climbing Championship

In the High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Chegem (4351 m) via the route on the northeast wall of the northeast ridge (V. Forostyana) 6A category of complexity by the KAIS MEI team For the period from August 5, 2020, to August 7, 2020 Climbing and Mountaineering Club of Moscow Power Engineering Institute

I. Climbing Passport

1984. CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF CHEGEM (4461 m) ALONG THE NE EDGE OF THE N-E RIB, APPROXIMATELY 5B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF INSTRUCTORS FROM THE "ULLUTAU" ALPINE CAMP. A. Kurochkin, V. Ivashkin, A. Lukonenko, V. Poliansky, A. Sayapin, V. Smirnov July 31 – August 4, 1984. Team Leader: Kurochkin A.G. Team Coach: Porokhnya Yu.I. 361602, KBAASSR, Verkhny Baksan settlement, "Ullutau" alpine camp 360017, Nalchik, Kirova st., 12, apt. 50 Porokhnya Yu.I. 364046, Grozny, Verkhoyanskaya st., 4A, apt. 99 Kurochkin A.G.

286. Chegettau via the Western Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 18, 32).

From the "Ullutau" alpine camp (group of 4-20 people), cross the Adyrsu River via a small bridge and ascend along the trail on its right bank. After passing the Chotchat stream, the trail diverges from the river to the right and goes up a steep slope overgrown with rhododendrons to the shoulder of the Eastern Ridge of Chotchat peak. At the shoulder, turn right and follow the trail, traversing the left (southern) slope of the Eastern Ridge of Chotchat peak, to reach the right-bank moraine of the Gumachi Glacier. Ascend along the moraine to the platforms at its end. Paths:

• From the "Ullutau" alpine camp — 2–2.5 hours. The "Gumachi Moraine" platforms serve as the initial bivouac. From the platforms, exit onto the Gumachi Glacier and move along the gentle part of the glacier towards the Gumachi Pass. After passing the icefall descending from the northwestern slopes of Chegettau peak, turn left and ascend steep ice-and-snow slopes (closed crevasses) to reach the southern cirque of the Gumachi Glacier. From the cirque, cross the bergschrund and ascend a steep 80–100-meter ice-and-snow slope (with protection) to reach the saddle of the Yaman Pass between Chegettau and Gumachi peaks. From the initial bivouac, it takes 3–3.5 hours. At the pass, turn left and follow the broad snowy ridge (with cornices) of the saddle to approach the ascent of the Western Ridge of Chegettau peak. From the saddle, ascend 100 meters (with protection) over simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks at the ascent. Then, follow the broad, occasionally narrow snowy ridge (with cornices), with short steep ascents and sections of simple destroyed rocks, to reach the summit of Chegettau. From the pass saddle, it takes 4–5 hours.

Fig. 32