Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: 2.4.1. Caucasus, Chegem gorge
2. Peak name: Chegem (4461 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge (Forostyan's route)
3. Difficulty category: 6A
4. Route characteristics: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 1160 m

Route length: 1700 m Section lengths: - cat. V difficulty – 200 m - cat. VI difficulty – 260 m

Average steepness: - wall section of the route — 92° - entire route — 44°

6. Equipment used on the route (including for artificial anchors):

Pitons: 26/5; chocks and other placements: 290/160 Total artificial anchors used: 165 7. Team's moving hours: 28 h (including 10 h for preparation), 3 days

8. Team leader:

Smirnov Viktor Valerievich, Master of Sports

Team members:

-   Polenov Dmitriy Yurievich, 1st sports category
-   Genkin Ilia Alexandrovich, 1st sports category

9. Coach:

Smirnov Viktor Valerievich, Master of Sports

10. Departure for preparation:

August 12, 2001 at 7:00 AM. Departure on the route: August 13, 2001 at 6:00 AM. Reached the summit: August 14, 2001 at 1:00 PM. Returned to the base camp: August 14, 2001 at 8:00 PM.

Route scheme in UIAA symbols

R14 R13 1000 m 30° III R12 50 m 60° III R11 150 m 50° III–IV R10 40 m 75° IV R9 40 m 85° V А2 R8 80 m 90° V А2 R7 50 m 95° VI А3 R6 40 m 90° V А2 R5 140 m 95° VI А3 R4 40 m 95° VI А4 R3 20 m 90° VI А3 R2 50 m 90° VI А3 R1 50 m 105° VI А4 R0 40 m 80°

Fig. 1. General photo of the peak. Taken on August 11, 2001 from the moraine campsite below Mt. Chegem

1 — 6A via the NE wall of the NE ridge (Kurochkin's route). 2 — 6A via the NE wall of the NE ridge (Forostyan's route)

Fig. 2. Technical photo of the route

Fig. 4. Photo of sections R1–R3. Genkin—Polenov team working on preparation.

Fig. 5. Photo of section R8–R9. Genkin is leading on the route.