Ascent Report on Mt. Chegem 6A Category of Complexity via Forostyan's Route on the NE Wall and NE Ridge, accomplished by the team of "Vershina" mountain club, Volgograd region.
Ascent Passport
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Region — Central Caucasus, Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range, upper reaches of the western branch of Chegem gorge.
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Mt. Chegem 4461 m. NE wall, NE ridge, Forostyan's route.
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6A category of complexity.
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Combined route.
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Height difference — 1290 m.
Distance — 1936 m. Length of sections with V category — 308 m. Length of sections with VI category — 201 m. Length of snow-ice sections — 1425 m. Length of rock sections — 511 m. Average steepness: main part of the route to the shoulder of NE ridge — 84.9°; entire route — 45°.
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Pitons left on the route:
Total — 0, friends — 1. Pitons and AIDs used on the route:
| Section | Pitons | AID |
|---|---|---|
| R4–R6 | 7 bolts | 9 |
| R8–R9 | 3 bolts | 9 |
| R10–R13 | 3 bolts | 6 |
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Team's climbing hours:
approach to the route: 11 h; route processing: 15 h; climbing hours to the summit: 16 h 15 min; descent to "Ullu-Tau" ASC: 9 h; total time on the route: 51 h 15 min over 6 days.
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Team leader:
Semykin Boris Ivanovich — CMS.
Participants:
- Chentsov Vadim Gennadievich — 1st sports category
- Shikin Yuri Mikhailovich — 1st sports category
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Coach:
Semykin Boris Ivanovich — instructor, 3rd category.
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Departure from "Ullu-Tau" ASC at 12:00 on August 9, 2001.
Departure for route processing at 13:00 on August 10, 2001. Departure for further route processing at 9:00 on August 11, 2001. Departure on the route at 8:00 on August 12, 2001. Summit reached at 14:15 on August 13, 2001. Return to "Ullu-Tau" ASC at 9:00 on August 14, 2001.
Departed from "Ullu-Tau" ASC at 12:00 on August 9, 2001. Arrived at the Donkina pass by 20:00, set up a bivouac. From 8:00 to 11:00 on August 10, 2001, crossed the Donkina pass, descended into Chegem gorge, and set up a bivouac on the left moraine of Djailyk glacier.
Departed for route processing at 13:00. Retrieved a note from the I control point by 19:00. Fixed 2.5 ropes of belay.
Departed for further route processing at 9:00 on August 11, 2001, reached the II control point, did not exchange notes. Fixed a total of 6 ropes of belay.
Departed on the route at 8:00 on August 12, 2001. Passed the II control point by 12:00. Arrived at the III control point on the shoulder of NE ridge by 14:15. The first participant climbed without a backpack, the second and third transported a duffel bag with equipment. Set up a bivouac on a ledge under the second pinnacle of the NE ridge by 19:00.
Departed from the bivouac at 9:00 on August 13, 2001. Reached the snow-ice ridge by 10:50.
Reached the summit by 14:15. Began descent towards the Donkina pass via a 3A category route by 15:00. Set up an overnight bivouac on the ridge above the pass by 20:00.
Departed from the overnight bivouac at 5:00 on August 14, 2001. Returned to "Ullu-Tau" by 9:00.
General view of the summit. August 10, 2001.
General photo of the summit. Upper part of the route and descent along the ridge. View of Mt. Chegem from Mt. Djailyk
Technical photo of the route.
First participant crossing the cornice R4 VI A2 3 m 120°. Two team members belaying at station R3.
Section of the route R2 V 30 m 60°. Second participant following on belay.
First participant crossing the cornice R4 VI A2 3 m 120°.
