SSummitMate
@SummitMate
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the top of Vodzh peak (5434 m) along the eastern ridge, a combined route of 3A category of complexity in the Western Pamir.
I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Pgo — Western Pamir, Severo-Shugnanskiy ridge 3. Peak-Vodj, 5434 m, via the eastern ridge, combined 4. Proposed category — 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average slope — 40°, length of sections of category III — 360 m, category IV — 100 m 6. Pitons used: - for belaying for standing belay rock — 7 - ice — 3 - bolt —
Route Description: левой части С стены
SSummitMateAscent to Vozh Peak (5434 m) via the left part of the northern wall, difficulty category 5A, elevation gain 864 m, route length 1070 m.
Ascent Log
- Class — ALPINE-TECHNICAL
- Ascent Region — SOUTHWEST PAMIR SHUGNAN RANGE
- Object — peak VODJ 5434 m
- Route — via the left part of the north face ice-snow first ascent
- Proposed difficulty category — 5A
- Height difference: 864 m — total (by altimeter)
Route Description: С стене через пер. Марш Мира
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Vozh (5434 m) via the North face through the Marsh Mira pass, difficulty category 5A.
Ascent Passport
- Class — High-altitude technical
- South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Range, Nematzdara valley
- Vodzh peak, 5434 m, via the North face through Marsh Mira pass
- Proposed category of complexity — 5A cat. diff., snow-ice
- Height difference: 780 m, length 1170 m, length of 5th category sections — 410 m, average steepness of main sections — 51° (5170–5410) 49° (4694–5080)
- Pitons driven: protection and ITO rock —
Route Description: кф. СВ стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Vozh Peak (5434 m) via the spur of the northeast face, 5B difficulty category, Pamir, Shugnanskiy Range.
Ascent Passport
- CATEGORY — High-altitude technical
- REGION — South-Western Pamir, Shugnan Range
- PEAK — Vodzh peak 5434 m first ascent via the counterfort of the northeastern wall
- PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B
- HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1065 m LENGTH of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 600 m. AVERAGE slope — 62°.
- PITS DRIVEN: For belaying: For creating ITO
Route Description: кф. СВ стены
SSummitMateThe Chelyabinsk team made the first ascent of Vozh Peak via the spur of the northeast wall during the I RSFSR Alpine Climbing Championship in 1983, with the route rated as Category 5B.
The First RSFSR Climbing Championship
1983
First Ascent Category
Peak Vodzh 5434 m via the counterfort of the northeast wall (first ascent) Team of the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Committee
- captain — Kaigorodtsev S.A.
- coach — Tarkhanov V.G. 454043, Chelyabinsk, Revolution Square, 4, room 96 chairman of the regional sports committee — Vanitkin Gennady Vasilyevich,
Route Description: левому канту С стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the 5204 peak via the left edge of the northern wall, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed analysis of the stages and path characteristics.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical.
- Ascent area: 10-3 Pamir, North Shugnanskij Ridge.
- Peak, height, ascent route: P. 5204 via the left edge of the northern wall.
- Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
- Route characteristics: elevation difference: 1050 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m; average steepness — 70°.
- Number of pitons:
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateAscent of Peak "5204" via the center of the eastern wall in the North Shudnan Range, difficulty category 5B, elevation gain 1750 m.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent Class — Technical 2. Ascent Area — North Shugnanskiy Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak "5204" via the center of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 5B 5. Route Characteristics: height difference — 1750 m, average steepness — 61° Length of sections:
- I — none
- II — 300 m
- III — 710 m
Route Description: В стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the 5204 m peak in the Pamir Mountains via the East Face, category 5B difficulty, a technically challenging combined ascent with a height difference of 1500 m.
Climbing Passport
- Climbing category — technical.
- South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge.
- Peak 5204 m, first ascent via the Eastern wall.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1500 m; average steepness — 58°.
- Length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 780 m.
- Number of pitons driven for belaying: for creating artificial holds:
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Peak 5204 m via the North Face, category 6 difficulty, climbed in 1978 by a group of climbers led by V.I. Grishchenko.
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: D-3 Pamir, North Shugnansky Ridge
- Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5204 m via North face
- Proposed category of complexity: 6
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1350 m length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m average steepness — 70° Gordarak
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateSecond ascent of the north wall of Peak Gondarak (5204 m) in South-West Pamir, category 5 "E" difficulty, 1702 m elevation gain.
Ascent Log
1. Class — technical 4.13.8 2. Area — South-West Pamir, Shugnan Range 3. Peak — Gondorak, 5204 m, second ascent via the North Face 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Height difference — 1702 m Length of sections with V–VI difficulty category — 700 m, average steepness — 71° (face part) R3–R35 6. Pitons driven | For belay | For creating ITD |