Ascent Log

1. Class — technical 4.13.8 2. Area — South-West Pamir, Shugnan Range 3. Peak — Gondorak, 5204 m, second ascent via the North Face 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Height difference — 1702 m

Length of sections with V–VI difficulty category — 700 m, average steepness — 71° (face part) R3–R35

6. Pitons driven

7. Travel hours (ascent) — 28 h 8. Overnight stays on the route — three, one sitting, two comfortable 9. Captain: I. Elgin Valery Markovich — CMS

Team members: - Trushkov Vladimir Viktorovich — CMS - Eremeev Leonid Grigorievich — 1st sports rank - Lukoyanov Anatoly Arkadyevich — 1st sports rank - Noskov Ivan Anatolyevich — 1st sports rank 10. Departure date — August 11–14, 1984 and return date —

Alpinism Section of Chelyabinsk Regional Council DSO "Zenit"

Photo 1. General view. Lens "Helios-58". Distance ~10 km, peak Gondorak (5204 m). Peak Gondorak 5204 m. Lens R= 35 mm.

Right semi-profile of the wall. Sections R2–R26.

Team Tactical Actions

The tactical plan, drawn up on the eve of the ascent using the first ascenders' photographic materials and reconnaissance results, included the following positions:

- Time allocation: - August 10, 1984 — 12:00 — departure from base camp "2900" - 16:00 — arrival at assault camp "3500", organization of observation camp - August 11, 1984 — 08:30 — departure from camp "3500" - 08:00 — start working on the route - 21:00 — arrival under the "flake", preparation for overnight stay - August 12, 1984 — 09:00–18:00 — passage of the hanging part of the route - August 13, 1984 — 12:00 — arrival at S-3 ridge - 14:30 — arrival at the summit - 17:00 — descent via the ascent path to the wall tower on the route (R37), overnight stay - August 14, 1984 — 11:00 — descent into the Vuz-Dara valley - 14:00 — return to camp "2900". - Team division: - Elgin V. — Noskov I. — leading rope team - Trushkov V. — Lukoyanov A. — Eremeev L. - The first climber in the leading rope team works on a double rope on the wall section. The others follow the rope railing with top-rope belay and self-belay. - Each rope team has its own first aid kit, pocket food, bivouac and belay equipment. - Radio communication with base camp and observers at regular intervals from 08:00 to 22:00, as well as visual observation of the wall and summit parts of the route (20x spotting scope).

The planned tactical plan was largely executed, with no deviations from the movement schedule. On sections R2–R36, R40, R43, the first climber worked on a double rope, rope railings were organized, and movement on jammers with top-rope belay was used. The first climbers in the leading rope team alternated: - Elgin V. — R3, R5, R7, R9, R11, R13, R15–R22, R29–R36 - Noskov I. — R2, R4, R6, R8, R10, R12, R14, R23–R29

From section R37 onwards, the leading rope team was changed. Special equipment was transferred using a shuttle method. On August 12 and 13, a short break was taken at 14:00 for a snack (canned fish, sausage, lard, condensed milk). Each team member had pocket food (chocolate, sausage, dried fruits) during the ascent.

The first overnight stay on the route was a sitting bivouac on an inclined plate under an overhang (protection from possible rockfall), with rain in the second half of the night and until 10:00 the next day. The other two overnight stays on the route were in tents. Radio communication with base camp and observers was stable and timely, with no missed communication sessions. There were no accidents or injuries on the route.

Map of the area worked on by the Chelyabinsk Regional Council DSO "Zenit" in 1984. Compiled by Elgin V.M.

Photo 2. Sections R2–R3, R3–R4. Lens "Helios-58". Photo 2'. Section R4–R5. Lens "R" = 58 mm. Helios-44.

Photo 3. Section R5–R6. Lens "R" = 135 mm. Photo 3'. Section R6–R7. Lens "R" = 135 mm.

Photo 4. Sections R17–R18, R18–R19. Lens "Helios-58". Photo 4'. Section R20–R21. Lens "Helios-58".

Photo 5. Sections R22–R23, R23–R24. Lens "Helios-58".

Photo 6. Sections R26–R27, R27–R28. Lens "Helios-58".

Photo 10: Section R19 (upper part).